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HAMBURG | ГАМБУРГ | 汉堡 | هامبورغ
Page 44
Neuer Wall and
its brightest boutiques
ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmenund eines der führenden Häuser fürUhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unserem Hamburger Geschäft amJungfernstieg erwartet Sie eine großeAuswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarkensowie exquisite Schmuckstücke undein erstklassiger Service.
Willkommen bei Bucherer,
a Swiss company with a long traditionand one of the leading establishmentsfor watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Hamburg store directly atJungfernstieg you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-classservice.
Welcome to Bucherer,
Hamburg Jungfernstieg 25
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS
und viele mehrand many more
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Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | BaselBern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano LucerneSt. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com
Te Alsterhaus, situated on Hamburg’s Jungfernstieg waterfront
boulevard and overlooking the Alster lake, is one of the world’s
leading department stores. Since 1912, the Alsterhaus has been
at the forefront of style and luxury with over 24,000 m2 of retail
foor space.
Te Alsterhaus represents the international lifestyle by ofering its customers
exceptional fashion, beauty and home & living trends as well as food beverages.
Numerous shop-in-shops spread over 6 sales foors take the shopper on a journey
to the world’s great shopping metropolises, offering its clientele a retail
experience of the frst degree. Te Alsterhaus is steeped in historical ambience
and looks back on a more than one hundred year-old history, comparable to
Harrods in London or Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Since the very beginning,
this traditional Hamburg department store has been one of Germany’s leading
department stores.
On the third floor you will find an incomparable
assortment of the finest women’s undergarments
and lingerie as well as home and living accessories,
Kid’s Fashion such as leather goods and luggage. In
addition you can visit the newly opened Apartment
featuring the most recent interior design trends.
Te frst and second foor at
Alsterhaus offer a modern
selection of fashion brands
for women and men as well
as a hairdresser. A special
highlight is our premium
lounge private shopping
area with a stupendous view
over the Alster lake.
In the Alsterhaus beauty department spread
over 1,500 m², customers will fnd the luxury
brands, newcomer fragrances and innovative
cosmetics. Fashion accessories from major
international brands can also be found on
the ground foor.
On the Alsterhaus basement level the customers will fnd a
unique selection of masterfully crafed writing instruments, a
ticket shop and a customer service. Highlights of our customer
service include a cloakroom, tailoring, personal shoppers, global
shipping and beauty lounges.
The 4th floor invites true gourmets to sample a
veritable cornucopia of wines and delicacies in our
gourmet boulevard, as well as one-of-a-kind Veuve
Clicquot champagne bar. Our culinary specialists
at our LeBufet restaurant prepare meals in front of
guests. Another Highlight: Te japanese restaurant
Yoshi ofers delicious food that can be enjoyed on the
beautiful terrace with a splendid view over Hamburgs
roofops.
PERSONAL SHOPPER
We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you
throughout your visit to Alsterhaus. Our VIP Service specialists will make your shopping trip into a unique
individual experience. We cater specif cally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. Af er an informal
discussion and a thorough image consultation, we compile an exclusive selection just for you, from which
you can pick out and try on your favourite items. Enjoy your visit to our store in a private atmosphere & with
a sparkling glass of champagne or a stimulating espresso.
For further information, please contact us on +49 40 3590 1677 or E-Mail: [email protected]
SERVICES
TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS,
SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU!
In addition, the Alsterhaus is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services, such as:
TOURS OF THE LEGENDARY ALSTERHAUS
Explore the legendary Alsterhaus and learn lots of interesting things, from its beginnings to the department
store’s presence today. We would like to accompany you and your guests on an individual tour, which ofers
you an introduction to an unforgettable shopping experience. Simply call our VIP Service to book your
personal tour.
CLOAKROOM AND LUGGAGE STORAGE
You can leave your coats and jackets as well as your shopping free of charge in the lockers on the Lower
Ground Floor.
GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICES
Out expertise is to make even the smallest gif stand out. A gif-wrapping service is available at all Alsterhaus
checkouts. We are happy to wrap free of charge any items purchased at our store, using our luxury Alsterhaus
gif paper.
BEAUTY LOUNGES & SERVICES
Te exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the
world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available
from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure
and pedicure or a new Make-up, all beauty treatments are carried out at Alsterhaus with total care and
professionalism. For further information contact our Beauty Department.
MADE-TO-MEASURE SHIRTS
Eton, van Laack and Jacques Britt – design your own custom-made shirt. Choose from over 450 exklusive
cotton fabrics and a unique selection of collar and cuf styles to create your personal shirt – for business or
leisure. Visit us on the 1st foor. Please call +49 40 3590 1677 to arrange an appointment.
COMPLIMENTARY WIFI
Simply log-in while you are visiting the Alsterhaus and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection
for up to 3 hours.
CUSTOMER SERVICES
If there is a problem with your purchase in Alsterhaus, we will do everything possible to correct the situation
quickly, simply and to your fullest satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints,
our customer services on the Lower Ground Floor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl
your every wish and to always do better for you.
TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT.
Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.
ALSTERHAUS Hamburg · Jungfernstieg 16 – 20 · 20354 Hamburg
Phone: +49 40 3590 10 · Fax: +49 40 3590 1310 · Email: [email protected]
Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm · www.alsterhaus.de
BRANDS
Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...
CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Hamburg
2x Alstertal Einkaufszentrum · Mönckebergstraße 18 · Europa-Passage · Elbe-Einkaufszentrum
Spitaler Straße 32 · Wandsbek Quarree · Phoenix-Center (Harburg) · Eppendorfer Landstraße 77
(inside Karstadt)
www.christ.de
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Emma Cheevers
EDITOR’S LETTER
16
@shopcontent/globalblue /globalblue@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
ILL
US
TR
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: IS
AA
C B
ON
AN
Welcome to Hamburg
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you
discover the very best of this vibrant port city. Hamburg has much to
ofer, as our guide on page 67 reveals. Readers who appreciate the very
latest in jewellery design will enjoy our feature on new trends (page 50),
and in this issue we also profle Alexander Brenninkmeijer, founder of
the chic, afordable label Clemens en August.
SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader
that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international
insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top
global brands you’ll fnd in Hamburg. For the very latest information,
visit globalblue.com.
Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the
simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand,
and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit
globalblue.com/join.
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Austrian Alps
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Cologne
Copenhagen
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
دليل ألانيا德国指南
Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
Istanbul
Italy
Japan
Lake Saimaa
Lebanon
London
Madrid
Malaysia
Milan
Munich
Nuremburg
Oslo
Paris
巴黎
Portugal
Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Seoul
Singapore
Stockholm
Stuttgart
Switzerland
Vienna
Vilnius
OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST 31
Beauty and more …visit Europe’�
No. 1 perfumery!
∙ Mönckebergstraße 8 / Spitalstraße 7, 040 - 326734
∙ Neuer Wall 1-5 / Jungfernstieg 7, 040 - 343614
WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE
DOUGL AS WORLD OF BE AU T Y IN HAMBURG :
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosme-tic products and fashion accessories.
With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.
Explore our world of beauty!
HAMBURGMÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE
Please scan the QR-code with your smart-
phone to get more information about your
GALERIA store Hamburg, Mönckebergstrasse.
Welcome to Hamburg,
the lifestyle capital of the north. Enjoy
your stay in a city where history and
modernity go hand in hand. You will
fi nd the GALERIA Kaufhof shopping
paradise in the heart of the city
on Mönckebergstraße, right next
to the main railway station. Visit
GALERIA Kaufhof and be inspired by
the wide variety of products from
famous brand name manufacturers,
the excellent service and the fabulous
atmosphere. If you come from a coun-
try outside the EU, please enjoy tax-
free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!
We look forward to seeing you!
GALERIA Kaufhof...
... makes you fall in love with Germany
galeria-kaufhof.deGALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.
facebook.com/ca
In the mood for fashion?
visit us: www.canda.com
Hamburg Mönckebergstraße 9 • Altona Mercado-Center • Wandsbek Quarree
Вы любите моду?Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых
центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов
в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного.
Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого
рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент
модной женской, мужской и детской одежды –
конечно же лучшего качества и по самым
привлекательным ценам.
هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟
إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت C&A. ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة،
من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة. وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في
محلتنا. لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات
والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان .
24
globalblue.com
ILL
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ION
: TE
LE
GR
AM
ME
Telegramme
Telegramme design studio,
founded by Bobby Evans,
created this season’s cover
illustration for SHOP
Hamburg. Its eye-catching
artwork has previously been
commissioned by Warner
Music, the Guardian, Condé
Nast, Penguin Books and
some of the biggest names in
popular music, among others.
Its designers’ ability to take a
complex concept and turn it
into an engaging composition
makes Telegramme the
perfect choice for this cover,
inspired by our feature about
Hamburg’s Neuer Wall area on
page 44. It shows Neuer Wall’s
distinctive Christmas lights,
which feature as the cover line.
Explore our archive of cover
illustrations at
globalblue.com/covers.
CONTRIBUTORS
Josh Sims
Freelance journalist and
editor Josh Sims contributes to
publications that include the
Financial Times, Independent,
Observer, Wallpaper and
Esquire. His latest book is
Icons of Women’s Style,
published in April 2015.
Dominique Fenn
Dominique Fenn is a writer
and creative consultant
specialising in luxury fashion
and lifestyle. She currently
works for the Dazed Group
and has previously contributed
to i-D magazine and
AnOthermag.com.
Beth Druce
Fashion and luxury writer
Beth Druce also works as a
consultant for luxury fashion
companies. She holds an MA
from Central Saint Martins
in London. Beth delights in
documenting diverse and
quickly evolving trends.
SWATCH STORE Jungfernstieg 7
26
SHOP FLOOR
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chief
Emma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
Publisher
James Morris
Managing editor
Sally McIlhone
Cover illustrator
Telegramme
Contributors
Beth Druce, Dominique Fenn,
Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims
Production editor
Caterina Mazzolai
Acting production editor
Ruairidh Pritchard
Production assistant
Katie Muxworthy
Features editor
Verity Hogan
City guide and lifestyle editor
Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion editor
Ximena Daneri
News editor
Hannah Lewis
Fashion and news assistant
Theresa Harold
Fashion coordinator
Fani Mari
Chief sub-editor
Hester Lacey
Copy editors
Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat,
Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Picture editor
Kirsty Andrews
Creative editor/
deputy picture editor
Sarah Beyts
Assistant picture editor
Grace Bird
Picture assistants
Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers
Art direction
Design by S-T
Artwork editor
Simon Thompson
Artworking assistants
Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène,
Milkha Lala
Artworking intern
Tom Knight
GL OBA L BLU E GE R M A N Y
Head of commercial Europe/Latin America
Pier Francesco Nervini
Head of commercial Central Europe
Ronald Christen
Marketing sales manager
Michael Mauerhoff
Sales manager
Pino Dufter
Global Blue Germany,
Vogelsanger Weg 38,
40470 Düsseldorf,
Regional tourist office
Hamburg Tourismus GmbH,
Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3005 1300,
hamburg-tourism.de
Online managing editor
Kirsty Welsh
Online production assistant
Marina Nelson
Online writer
Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor
Yuan Fang
Associate Chinese editor
Junjie Dou
Chinese contributing editor
Qingya He
Chinese editorial assistants
Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang
Chinese translators
Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi,
Aiyang Zou
Russian editor
Anastasia Nemchenok
Russian editorial assistant
Karina Starobina
Russian translators
Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik,
Gary Ramazanov
Arabic editor
Haneen Malaeb
Dane Consultancy
Commercial editor
Gemma Latham
Commercial artworking assistant
Samantha Junak
Commercial artworking intern
Kiranjeet Kaur
AVP business development manager
Patrice Janet
Head of digital
Eamonn Leacy
Digital campaign manager
Nina Kobalia
Digital marketing assistant
Anastasia Budieva
Product manager
Devesh Sankadecha
Production assistant
Sammy Ha
Developer
Mohammed Hakki
Digital production manager
Andrew Lugton
Advertising and partnership manager
Riccardo Canini
Distribution and partnerships
manager
Lara Osuna
Chief executive officer
Jacques Stern
SHOP is published by
Global Blue
Group headquarters
Global Blue SA,
Route de Crassier 7,
CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland
Corporate registration number
5565726923
globalblue.com
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CONTENTS
28
Above: Kleine Alster canal on the southern side of Neuer Wall
PRODUCTS
32 Check Out
SHOP selects a standout piece from
Hamburg this season
34 Products
Key looks for the season, from fashion and
footwear to jewellery and accessories
N E WS
40 Shop Window
One store not to be missed in Hamburg
41 News
Seasonal updates on shops, services and
new products
F E AT U R E S
44 Cover Story: Hamburg’s Hot Spot
Neuer Wall presents a wealth of designer
fashion and high-end jewellery boutiques.
It’s a luxury shopping favourite, says Beth
Druce
50 To The Max
Oversized jewellery dominated many of the
collections this autumn/winter. Dominique
Fenn fnds out why bigger has become
better
56 Branching Out
His family founded the retail giant C&A
and now Alexander Brenninkmeijer runs a
chic and afordable fashion label of his own,
as Josh Sims discovers
PH
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E X PE R I E NCE
62 Café Society
Hamburg is a signifcant hub of the global
cofee trade and this is refected in the city’s
wealth of vibrant cafés. Theresa Harold
takes a tasting tour of the best
GU I DE
67 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas
of Hamburg
E SSE N T I A L S
76 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving money on your
shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
78 Русский Перевод
84 美文翻译
89
SOU V E N I R
90 The essential item to bring home
p.44
At Karstadt sports in Hamburg, am Am Hauptbahnhof
CHECK OUT
32 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
in shades of blue, grey, olive green and deep red. Made from 100% silk woven in Italy, these ties are exclusively handcrafted in Germany. The family-run label of Christian and Michael Sieger follows traditions of German perfectionism which have been combined with a colourful spirit of the Mediterranean to create a thoroughly modern brand. thSieger silk ties, €119 each, JF Flebbe, Eppendorfer Baum 7, 20249 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 476679,sieger-germany.com
ALL TIED UP
German premium brand Sieger has released a new collection of ties called Wicapi. Featuring unusual geometric shapes and colour combinations, the collection takes inspiration from Native American culture – in fact, wicapiis a Native American term meaning star. The dark colours and subtle details of these ties will smarten up any outft. Choose from patterns such as houndstooth or star mosaics
LEADING WOMENSWEAR BRANDS AND COLLECTIONS
HAMBURG ALSTERTAL-EINKAUFSZENTRUM MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 8 PM
HAMBURG MÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE 15 MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 8 PM
TRAVEL IN STYLE
Stay chic and comfortable with this perfect airport outft
34 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
1. Escada wool coat, €1,399, Escada, Grosse Bleichen 23-27, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 363296, escada.com
2. Marc Cain hat, €39.90, Marc Cain, Neuer Wall 52, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 0189, marc-cain.com
3. Closed jeans, €199, Closed, Bergstrasse 11, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3039 2196, closed.com
4. Salvatore Ferragamo heels,
€1,690, Salvatore Ferragamo, Neuer Wall 41, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 378 5360, ferragamo.com
5. Hurraw lip balm, €5.90, American Apparel, Jungfernstieg 51, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3070 3892, hurrawbalm.com
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SHOP | 35
6. Sportmax handbag, €1,189, Max Mara, Neuer Wall 25, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3750 0150, maxmara.com
7. Roeckl scarf, €289, Roeckl, Grosse Bleichen 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343418, roeckl.com
8. Rimowa Salsa Deluxe wheeled
suitcase, €499, Rimowa, Neuer Wall 10, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3003 9160, rimowa.com
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STYLISH HERITAGE
These classic products from seminal brands will stand the test of time
36 | PRODUC TS
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
1. Diesel jumper, €160, Diesel, Poststrasse 14-16, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3500 4710, diesel.com
2. Louis Vuitton backpack, €2,160, Louis Vuitton, Neuer Wall 37, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 344740,louisvuitton.com
3. Victorinox Swiss Army Classic
Alox knife, €37, Altonaer Silber Werkstatt, Holstenstrasse 188-194, 22765 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3861 4858, victorinox.com
4. Montblanc TimeWalker Urban
Speed e-Strap watch, €4,990, Montblanc, Neuer Wall 18, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 351175,montblanc.com
5. Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Exotic
Leather fragrance, 150ml, €375, Dolce & Gabbana, Neuer Wall 80, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3006 9660, dolcegabbana.com
6. Burberry Prorsum scarf, €395, Burberry, Neuer Wall 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 345856, burberry.com
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SHOP | 37
7. Eton shirt, €149, Alsterhaus, Jungfernstieg 16-20, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 359010, etonshirts.com
8. Barbour International gloves,
€79.90, Anson’s, Mönckebergstrasse 8, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 328 1701,barbour.com
9. Tod’s loafers, €385, Tod’s, Neuer Wall 41, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8222 4747, tods.com
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SHOP WINDOW
40 | N E WS
MORE FOR MEN
Luxury menswear specialist Braun, which has two handsome stores in the heart of Hamburg, ofers a wide array of clothing and accessories from more than 140 of the world’s top labels. Year-round, its expert team is on the hunt for the best in high-end menswear, scouring the world for the best collections and the latest trends. As well as ready-to-wear by everyone from Adriano Goldschmied to Z Zegna, Braun has an exclusive in-house tailor’s studio where exacting gentlemen can have their purchases altered on-site, or even
organise a totally made-to-measure piece. Still in the hands of the eponymous founding family, Braun is committed to quality and to unsurpassed client service, with expert members of staf always on hand to give each visitor the best experience possible. mkh
Braun,Grosse Bleichen 27, 20354 Hamburg;
* for map go to page 71Mönckebergstrasse 17, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3344 7133,braun-hamburg.com
* for map go to page 74
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SHOP | 41
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ELEGANT AESOP
Presenting a wealth of botanical hair and skincare products, Hamburg’s frst Aesop store opened in early 2015. It is set in a protected historic building in the stylish neighbourhood of ABC-Viertel and its interior design features natural materials such as untreated European oak shelves and blue stone fooring, resulting in a boutique as understated and stylish as one would expect from the Australian brand. Covering 112 square metres, the shop also contains the frst Aesop facial treatment room in Europe. In this purpose-built space, clients can choose from six treatments given by in-house therapists. A perfect way to rejuvenate and nourish the skin, the facials last from 60 to 90 minutes. thAesop, Poststrasse 22, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3499 3636, aesop.com
* for map go to page 70
DENIM DELIGHTS
Ralph Lauren’s Denim & Supply has opened in a historic building in Hamburg. This is its second store in Germany and its biggest in Europe. It features a wide selection of women’s and men’s clothing, accessories and premium denim. The brand’s unique approach to denim is evident throughout the store, mixing American heritage with bohemian and nautical styles. The result is a buzzing, youthful atmosphere, with denim rugs, vintage reclaimed furniture and wooden foors. fmDenim & Supply,Mönckebergstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3808 0660, ralphlauren.com
* for map go to page 74
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
42 | N E WS
SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS
Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art deco-infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. This delicate necklace is formed from the collection’s central design element: a stylised fgure eight. Reminiscent of the symbol for eternity, it is derived from the company’s founding in 1888. hlBucherer,Jungfernstieg 25, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343467,bucherer.com
* for map go to page 72
BEST OF BOTH
Inspired by the spirit of Paris, the latest womenswear collection from Strenesse adds a German touch to classic French style. Androgynous silhouettes are given a feminine edge with soft textures, bold colours and prints, as seen in the super-cosy coats which are available in a wide range of colours and prints, from classic black and navy to glamorous leopard print. Boxy suits have been given a modern makeover with wide fared trousers which can be paired with masculine loafers. Simple yet standout accessories complete the collection so, with everything you need to get you through the colder months, Strenesse could be your one-stop shop for a capsule winter wardrobe. mkh
Strenesse, Heegbarg 33, 22391 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6029 8346, strenesse.com
globalblue.com
SHOP | 43
PARTNERS IN TIME
July saw the launch of an exclusive Patek Philippe boutique in Hamburg. Opened in connection with fne jewellery and watch specialist Wempe, one of Germany’s most prestigious brands, the store represents the joint knowledge and experience of two world leaders in the feld of fne timepieces. The two brands have worked closely since 1927, and in 2003 Swiss brand Patek Philippe even created a special watch to celebrate Wempe’s 125th anniversary. The showroom displays a wide selection of Patek Philippe’s exemplary watches. Members of staf are true watch experts and enthusiasts who are only too happy to help visitors fnd the perfect timepiece. hlPatek Philippe,Neuer Wall 5, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6360 76919,patek.com, wempe.com
* for map go to page 72
STAR TURN
G-Star Raw’s fagship store ofers three foors of innovative and diverse denim looks and fts. The shop presents the largest collection of G-Star Raw in north Germany. Founded in 1989, the Dutch fashion company has truly made a name for itself in the realm of casualwear. Its new store includes a denim wall that presents a wide range of styles: from skinny to tight, raw to distressed, dark or light, trend-led or classic. The Hamburg fagship provides a clean, streamlined experience, with knowledgeable brand ambassadors on hand to help fnd your perfect ft. thG-Star Raw,Bergstrasse 17, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5330 2790, g-star.com
* for map go to page 72
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Above: Kleine Alster canal on the southern side of Neuer Wall
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With its abundance of
designer fashion and high-end
jewellery boutiques, Neuer
Wall is a luxury shopping
favourite, says Beth Druce
When one thinks of Europe’s luxury shopping
destinations Hamburg might not be the
frst to come to mind. Yet in the district of
Neustadt you’ll fnd that Neuer Wall has
quietly established itself as an upmarket
shopping quarter. Running from Jungfernstieg
on Binnenalster (Inner Alster lake) to
Stadthausbrücke, it is lined with fashion
46 | FEATURES
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Above (clockwise from top lef): shopping district in the Neuer Wall quarter; Michael Kors store; Cartier cufinks; Prada Inside bag
The southern half
of the street plays
host to high-fashion
designer labels
houses and would rival any of the world’s
exclusive shopping areas.
‘The high-end shopping district around
Neuer Wall, with its streets spread out over a
lattice of canals and bridges, is one of the most
elegant in the country,’ noted Nick Foster in
the Financial Times. More than one kilometre
long, it was refurbished in 2006 and during
the past nine years the number of shops has
gradually increased. The southern half of
the street in particular plays host to high-
fashion designer labels alongside interiors and
furniture stores, cofee shops and restaurants.
If your attention was caught by the printed
and pastel-hued double-zip leather handbags
that Miuccia Prada sent models sashaying
down the catwalk with for autumn/winter
2015/16, Neuer Wall might be the perfect
place to examine them further. Indeed, its
selection of international brands, including
Michael Kors, Mulberry and Longchamp,
makes it ideal for those looking to make an
accessories purchase. Louis Vuitton’s
SHOP | 47
such an investment. Café Engelchen is an
elegant second-foor cofee house and with its
large windows it is ideal for observing the well-
dressed clientele of Neuer Wall.
Some of Hamburg’s oldest retailers can
also be found on Neuer Wall, including the
jeweller Brahmfeld & Gutruf, whose colourful
and ornate pieces are studded with gemstones
and full of quirky, nature-inspired motifs.
The boutique is worth a visit for its distinctive
interior alone; in 2014 it was awarded the
Deutsche Lichtdesign Preis, the German
lighting design award, for its innovative use
of 48,000 LEDs which gives the efect of the
changing colour of the Hamburg sky.
While districts such as Neuer Wall are
largely synonymous with fashion houses of an
upmarket, luxury nature, recent years have
seen the emergence of a new demographic
of high-street labels that meld a boutique
shopping experience with cutting-edge trends
and a more afordable price structure. Cos and
& Other Stories are two examples that have
super-furry leopard print handbags are perfect
for those with more adventurous tastes.
This area of Hamburg is also home to a
number of jewellery houses, including esteemed
names such as Cartier, Bulgari and Tifany &
Co, as well as luxury horologists Omega and
Montblanc. Take time to peruse a selection of
elaborate pieces before heading to a café to enjoy
a spot of food or a drink and to contemplate PH
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48 | F E AT U R E S
opened on Neuer Wall recently. The former ofers modern, pared-down collections built around well-edited colour palettes, while & Other Stories is a fashion and lifestyle space that is fun to browse ‒ its selection of clothing, jewellery, beauty and quirky accessories will keep you entertained for hours.
Yet, what distinguishes Neuer Wall from other designer fashion districts is the plethora of furniture stores that are situated towards Stadthausbrücke. These include the Dutch brand Rivièra Maison which showcases interiors and soft furnishing collections that take inspiration from some of Europe’s most
stylish cities. Neuer Wall is also home to century-old homeware retailer Weitz, which has one of the fnest selections of porcelain in Hamburg.
Trend-oriented visitors will fnd much to love in the Jil Sander store. The label was originally founded in Hamburg by Sander in 1968 but only gained prominence in the 1980s. Sander’s distinctive, regularly copied but never bettered signature style paved the way for 90s minimalism and remains a favourite among savvy dressers with an eye for sharp, understated clothing.
The concept of a high-end international
SHOP | 49
shopping district could conjure images of impersonal spaces, but Neuer Wall’s integration of old-world European elegance with modern luxury in the form of Chanel, Prada and Bottega Veneta gives it great appeal. It’s increasingly defned by an ambience that is popular with visitors from far and wide.
‘Zig-zag among the narrower streets to the south and west, sizing up the luxury shops and well-heeled shoppers around Neuer Wall,’ advised Frank Bruni in The New York Times. Neuer Wall, it appears, is both a place to see and to be seen in neuerwall-hamburg.de
Neuer Wall integrates old-world European elegance with modern luxury in the form of Chanel, Prada and Bottega Veneta
TO THE MAX
Oversized jewellery dominated many of the collections this autumn/winter. Dominique Fenn fnds out why bigger has suddenly become better
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There is something very comforting about the sound of bangles clinking together on a wrist, a melody of glorious silver
and golden notes. And is there anything that conveys an impression of being well travelled better than exotic jewels and one-of-a-kind statement pieces that are guaranteed to start a conversation? In what was possibly a sign that the German minimalist normcore movement is fnally over, bold jewellery and crafted accessories made strong statements on the autumn/winter 2015/16 catwalks.
The normcore aesthetic is extremely low-key, stripped back and anti-style. It recently became a recognised unisex trend and is characterised by a simplifed, ‘normal’ sense of style, with a distinct lack of detail, allowing wearers to blend into the crowd rather than stand out from it. This season’s demonstrable change of direction
Previous Page: Givenchy autumn/winter 2015/16/80 8589
Above (clockwise from top lef): Miu Miu; Marni; Proenza Schouler, all autumn/winter 2015/16; Niessing Phoenix collection necklace
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Above (from lef): Marni; Givenchy, both autumn/winter 2015/16
Oversized earrings looked like giant daisies with petals in white and pink
from the simplifed hues of black, grey and navy from a plethora of infuential international designers signifes a welcome return to showy style – at Proenza Schouler, one dress was decorated with 300,000 sequins. The real sense of change was noted in the fner details. Built over time, jewellery collections can tell a wonderfully unique story, and the tale for autumn/winter 2015/16 is loud and proud.
When it comes to the over-arching trends for the season, the spirit of spring/summer 2015 lives on in forals and delicate, feminine fabrics, with Valentino, Marni and Alexander McQueen all ofering incredibly ethereal collections. It’s only natural that chunky and oversized pieces should balance this out. Trend forecaster extraordinaire Miuccia Prada took
inspiration from several decades for her latest Miu Miu collection, notably the 1960s through to the 90s, although it was the glitter and glam of the 80s that was most eye-catching. Oversized earrings looked like giant daisies with petals in yellow, white, red and pink. Every other pair was a drop design, with a crystal-encrusted stone hanging from the fower. Matching necklaces completed the foral look.
The Marni woman always exudes an air of adventure and for this season multi-stone earrings and sculptural bracelets in natural hues told of far-fung travels. At Givenchy, multiple septum rings and jewelled faux piercings were created by make-up artist Pat McGrath for each model. Although delicate pearls adorned their faces, this was a celebration of the strength of women portrayed through facial embellishment and the overall look was dramatic and aggressive. There was also a rebellious spirit at Balenciaga where designer Alexander Wang combined the traditional house codes with perhaps his most dramatic of visions for the brand so far. Ears were covered with layers of pearl earrings, and decorative crystal-
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SHOP | 55
encrusted pieces on skirts and shoes added a fnishing touch of opulence.
Of the catwalk, jewellery retail has also been rejuvenated. According to the trend and innovation experts at research frm Stylus, ‘interactive technology, both in-store and online, is adding seductive new layers of personalisation and education to jewellery retailing’. The high-tech and high-touch worlds are colliding, and the in-store experience is one that simply cannot be matched online.
German watchmaker and jeweller Thomas Sabo says that life is too short for boring jewellery. A trip to one of his stores is a must for anyone who is a jewellery enthusiast and for whom this mantra rings true. His Karma beads and charms can be collected and pieces can be built up, with new charms added each season that can be used to create endless variations. For autumn/winter 2015/16 the brand is also ofering statement bangles with foral central motifs, and oversized cocktail rings with jewels
in winter berry shades.Another German brand ofering its own
take on maximalist jewellery is Niessing. The Phoenix collection is an architectural delight in miniature form. Signifying eternally repeating cycles, numerous slender oval discs are connected to produce a necklace and a bracelet, available in gold or platinum. The Papyr necklace is another sculptural gem, and gives the impression of an elaborately folded golden paper chain.
Trends in jewellery can go from minimalist and muted one season to overt and famboyant the next, and both international designers and home-grown German brands ofer their own interpretations of these looks.
As the fnishing touch, it’s all about how these trend-led jewellery pieces are matched with outfts. To let these maximalist pieces shine, when it comes to your clothing think simple miumiu.com, marni.com, givenchy.com, balenciaga.com, thomassabo.com, niessing.com
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Above (clockwise from top lef): Miu Miu; Thomas Sabo Karma Beads collection, both autumn/winter 2015/16; Thomas Sabo bracelet with a fower motif
56 | F E AT U R E S
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SHOP | 57
His family founded the retail giant C&A and now Alexander Brenninkmeijer
runs a fashion label of his own. It’s chic and afordable, as Josh Sims discovers
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It was perhaps inevitable that Alexander Brenninkmeijer would make a name for himself in fashion. But the minimalistic-chic aesthetic of the men’s and womenswear of his brand Clemens en August was probably not the direction many of his relatives might have expected him to take. Brenninkmeijer’s family was behind the German textiles and fashion retail giant C&A, which throughout the 70s and 80s pioneered a faster kind of cheerful fashion at everyman prices.
At frst glance Brenninkmeijer’s label is as divorced from high-street fashion as might be expected from a line favoured by the diverse likes of actor James McAvoy, artist-flmmaker Sam Taylor-Johnson, model Claudia Schifer and architect Rem Koolhaas. Yet it’s born of Brenninkmeijer’s realisation that designer clothes need not be incredibly expensive.
Brenninkmeijer tours with his collection each season, setting up shop for a few days in an art gallery or theatre
Previous page: Alexander Brenninkmeijer, Clemens en August founder
/82 8688
SHOP | 59
‘There is a market for interesting clothes just as long as you don’t ask a lot of money for them,’ says the entrepreneur, who is currently building investment for major expansion. ‘In my situation I can sometimes aford to buy something more expensive. I might see that something is a nice piece of design but I’m not going to pay €2,000 for it. I’d rather take the risk of waiting for the sales and it still being in my size, which a lot of people do now.’
Brenninkmeijer should know. After a spell as ladies’ dresses and maternity-wear buyer for C&A, he was co-founder of the infuential Kostas Murkudis label. He says that often the pressure on prices is a consequence of rapidly rising property rents and stafng costs.
At Clemens en August a signature sharp, modern classic men’s suit can be purchased for about €800, around half the cost that the
Above (clockwise from lef): Clemens en August touring in DÜsseldorf; the brand’s menswear; the tour in Cologne
60 | F E AT U R E S
equivalent quality item would be elsewhere. In order to keep prices down Brenninkmeijer has adopted a radical selling technique.
You won’t fnd Clemens en August in the shops. Brenninkmeijer wanted to avoid buyers cherry-picking the most commercial pieces and breaking up the mood of a complete collection. Nor does Clemens en August have its own stores anywhere. It simply can’t aford a prestigious fagship ‒ not, at least, without a price hike for its clothes. Instead Brenninkmeijer tours with his collection each season, setting up shop for a few days in an art gallery or theatre. He is currently visiting London, Zürich, Vienna, Hamburg, Cologne and four other major German cities.
Fans are advised in advance to put the dates in their diaries, come along ‒ or rather dash, since each piece is made in limited numbers ‒
Above (clockwise from top lef): Clemens en August touring in Kunstverein München in Munich; two looks from the collection; the brand’s womenswear
SHOP | 61
and buy for the season. ‘It’s personal, people get to know each other, and they get to see the fabrics up close, what makes them special. There’s a private members’ club mentality,’ he says. Of course, it does not do Clemens en August any harm that this semi-restricted access also gives the label cachet.
‘We’re very much focused on the product and operate kind of of-the-grid,’ he explains. It creates, he says, an insider edge and this works well ‘because in fashion we often want most what we can’t get. Of course, there are other brands that are much cheaper than us,’ he adds ‘but they don’t have the cut, the fabrics or the feel. And we can focus on all that because we don’t have the usual fashion brand overheads. Back when we started we thought of trying to open just one spectacular store but reckoned it would cost around €10m. We ended up inviting
friends and their friends to come along and see if they liked what we were designing. We still didn’t have a name for the brand then. But it all sold in one evening.’
Yet Clemens en August is closer to the ethos of the family business than is perhaps obvious. Go back to the very origins of the C&A name and you discover a pair of brothers, Messrs Clemens and August, the company founders from whom Brenninkmeijer takes his label’s name. These two started what in 1841 became the pan-European giant by making clothes and selling them in their own of-beat way, too: shop-less, they would travel from region to region and sell high-quality fabrics direct to cash-strapped farmers. Clemens en August does much the same today, only its customers are likely to dress better clemensenaugust.com
globalblue.com
CAFÉ SOCIETYHamburg is a signifcant hub of the global cofee trade and this is refected in the city’s wealth of vibrant cafés. From a charming old dairy shop to the outlet of an artisan roastery, Theresa
Harold takes a tasting tour of the best
Cofee frst arrived in Germany in the 17th century, and for centuries its consumption was synonymous with wealth. Fast forward to today and it is the nation’s most popular drink across all sectors of society. Germans now drink more cofee than beer. According to the most recent fgures from the Deutscher Kafeeverband (German Cofee Association) the average resident consumes 165 litres of cofee a year.
Hamburg’s cofee culture is particularly vibrant. The city is one of the most signifcant trading and distribution points for cofee beans in Europe. Every year, more than a million tons of cofee passes through the city’s port, of which half stays in Germany and the rest is exported to other European countries.
So it is little wonder that Hamburg ofers a wealth of options for enjoying cofee from around the world. Here, there are artisanal espresso bars, old-fashioned cafés, independent cofee roasters and even a museum devoted to the bean. One quintessential German experience that shouldn’t be missed is the ritual of Kafee und Kuchen, which translates as ‘cofee and cake’. As integral as the cofee is to the experience, so too is the cake, and happily Hamburg is amply supplied with venues that excel at both.
62 | E X PE R I E NCE
SHOP | 63
L E B E A U V O I S I N
Isabelle Guillot-Vignot brings a touch of Paris to Hamburg with her café Le BeauVoisin, which opened in the autumn of 2013. Serving speciality cofees, fne teas and homemade cakes, this is a cosy establishment. Its small terrace is the perfect spot to enjoy a lazy weekend brunch. During the week, there is an ever-changing lunch menu ofering light meals such as brie and mushroom quiche or seasonal vegetable soups.Le BeauVoisin, Ulmenstrasse 2, 22299 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 7308 6474,lebeauvoisin.de
64 | E X PE R I E NCE
globalblue.com
E L B G O L D
The Elbgold mission is simple: to serve the best cofee possible. To this end, the company’s buyers visit the world’s fnest cofee plantations to acquire high-quality arabica beans, which are then roasted by hand at Elbgold’s roastery in Hamburg. Customers can sample all the
cofees at its café on Mühlenkamp. The drinks are made with fresh country milk or lactose-free and soy alternatives. There are also freshly baked breads and cakes to enjoy, as well as tea, juice or even wine.Elbgold, Mühlenkamp 6A, 22303 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2788 2223,elbgold.com
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H E R R M A X
Those with a sweet tooth should seek out the delights of Herr Max café and patisserie. Opened by husband and wife team Matthias and Julia Max, the café remains adorned with blue and white tiles from the days when the building was a dairy shop. Where possible,
S T O C K H O L M E S P R E S S O C L U B
The passion for cofee is palpable at Stockholm Espresso Club. It’s not just the fact that every cup is weighed and its temperature taken before being served to the customer, it’s the evident pride the team members take in their job. What makes the cofee here diferent from other options available in the city is that it has a lighter roast – much like the cofee served in Scandinavia. This gives the drink a sweeter, fruitier taste and results in less bitterness.Stockholm Espresso Club, Peter-Marquard-Strasse 8, 22303 Hamburg, +49 (0)160 483 7361,stockholmespressoclub.de
ingredients are organic, and the cofee served is both organic and fair trade. To cater for customers with special requirements, there is always a small selection of vegan, gluten-free and lactose-free products.Herr Max, Schulterblatt 12, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6921 9951,herrmax.de
SHOPPING IS 14.5% BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE.
Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, find the best stores, and save up to 14.5% on everything you buy.
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GU I DE | 67
GUIDE
Above: Hamburg’s fsh market is a famous and vibrant early-morning venue
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hamburg with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from where to stock up on cosy winter layers to a tech store that should be browsed by all gadget lovers. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/hamburg.
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1 Niessing
Embrace this season’s trend
for maximalist jewellery at
Niessing.
Niessing,
Marriott Hotel,
ABC-Strasse 52,
20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3406 8939,
niessing.com
* featured on page 50
2 Braun
Stylish men should head
straight for menswear specialist
Braun, whose collection
of upmarket international
designers is hard to beat.
Braun,
Grosse Bleichen 27,
20354 Hamburg;
Mönckebergstrasse 17,
20095 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 334 4733,
braun-hamburg.com
* featured on page 40
3 Denim & Supply
For the perfect pair of jeans, look
no further than Ralph Lauren’s
new Denim & Supply store.
Denim & Supply,
Mönckebergstrasse 7,
20095 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3808 0660,
ralphlauren.com
* featured on page 41
4 Aesop
Stock up on beauty essentials
at Aesop’s chic Hamburg
outpost, which even has its own
treatment room.
Aesop,
Poststrasse 22,
20354 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 3499 3636,
aesop.com
* featured on page 41
SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS
HAMBURG
Place Of Interest U-Bahn HotelTrain Station
Tourist Information
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FLOR A-NEUMANN-STR .
VORWERKSTR.
BÖHMKENSTR.
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MILLERNTORPLATZ LUDWIG-ERH A RD-STR.
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MESSEHALLEN
LANDUNGSBRÜCKEN
ST. PAULI
East Hotel
RiversideHotel
Hotel HafenHamburg
LindnerHotel
NH Hamburg Cit y
Arcotel Ony x
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DAMMTORWALL
ALTER STEINWEG
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BUGENHAGENS TR .
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NESS HOPFENSACK P U MPEN
HAMBURGMAIN STATION
GÄNSEMARKT
STEPHANSPLATZ(OPER/CCH)
JUNGFERNSTIEG
MÖNCKEBERGSTR.
RATHAUS
RÖDINGSMARKT
BAUMWALL
MESSBERG
STEINSTR.
HBF. NORD
STADTHAUSBRÜCKE
Madison Hotel
Radisson BluHotel
Grand Elysée
HotelAlster Hof
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
Marriot
Steigenberger
Park Hyat
InterCit yHotel
Ibis Hotel
Hotel AtlanticKempinski
Sofitel
Renaissance Hamburg
Hotel Barcelo Hamburg
ELBPHILHARMONIE
TOWN HALL
HAMBURG STOCK EXCHANGE
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT
KUNSTHALLE(ART GALLERY)
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Neue-ABC Strasse, ABC-Strasse & Gänsemarkt
B
ÜS
CH
ST
R.
DREHBAHN
GROSSE THEATERSTR.
NE
UE
R J
UN
GF
ER
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TO
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GÄNSEMARKT
CA
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AM
AC
HE
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UH
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WIE
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● M
ARINA RINALDI
● ULI SCHNEIDER
● STRENESSE
● KOKO VON KNEBEL
● UNÜTZER SPORTM
ODEN
● POLO
COUTURE & CHEAP ●
FRANK RUDOLF ●
NIESSING ●
REPLAY ●
● W
UN
DE
RK
IND
HA
MB
UR
GW
ALT
RA
UD
●● B
ET
HG
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AP
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EB
CB
GM
AX
AZ
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● M
OR
GA
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INI
● JUWELIER BECKER● THOMAS I-PUNKT
● POLO SYLT● TATE
● OSKA HAMBURG
GÄNSEMARKT
ANNETTE GÖRTZ ●
THE ABC SHOP ●
Gänsemarkt Passage
● O
PTIK
ER S
ALM
EN
● J
UW
ELIE
R Z
ERO
● U
RBA
N O
UTF
ITTE
RS
● S
UPERDRY
SELECTED STORES IN
GÄNSEMARKT PASSAGE:
BUTLERSDIVA TRAUMKLEIDERELB HAMBURGGÄNSEMARKT PARFÜMERIEGÖRTZ 17JUN GUYS & DOLLSLABEL & TRENDSLES PETITSMAISON DE PARISMERCEDEH-SHOESPANDORAQUARTIER 50SIGNUM STOREUHRZEIT.ORG
Gerhofstrasse & Hohe Bleichen
DREHBAHN
B
ÜS
CH
ST
R.
KA
LK
HO
F
GROSSE THEATERSTR.
NE
UE
R J
UN
GF
ER
NS
TIE
G
NEUER W
ALL
NE
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C S
TR
.GROSSE B
LEICHEN
JUN
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TIEG
DA
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TO
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TR
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FU
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EN
TW
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GÄNSEMARKT
PO
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ST
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GE
RH
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ST
RA
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AMELUNGSTR.
HO
HE
BL
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CA
FF
AM
AC
HE
RR
EIH
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UH
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WIE
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● GOLDENE ZEITENMONSOON/● ACCESSORIZE● KAREN MILLEN● MARC O’POLO● BENETTON● THE BODY SHOP● EYECATCHER
GÄNSEMARKT
ESPRIT ●
KITON ●
AESOP ●
● GOSCHE SPECTATOR
ARGENTUM E K ●
● ETRO
NEUER WALL ●
DIBBERN ●LUDWIG REITER ●
LINETTE ●WOOLRICH ●
PAUL SMITH ●BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●
PETRA TEUFEL ●
● HACKETT
● FLAMANT
● PATIO ANTIQUES
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer Shopping Centre U-Bahn
P.41
Featured In This Issue
SHOP | 71
ALTER STEINWEG
D
ÜS
TE
NS
TRASSE
BL
EIC
HE
NB
RÜ
CK
E
PO
ST
ST
RA
SS
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HO
HE
BL
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HE
N
ST
AD
TH
AU
SB
RÜ
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E
NEUER WALL
GROSSE B
LEICHEN
● HARALD LUBNER
● ● ULI KNECHT
APOTHEKE GROSSE BLEICHEN
● ● BRAUN
●
BUTLERS
● M
ARC CAIN
CRABTREE & EVELYN
JO MALONE BY HAMBURGER
HOF PARFÜMERIE ●JUWELIER HANSEN ●
BASLER ●GOLFINO ●
MEPHISTO ●1,2,3 ●
MODEHAUS A STEEN ●
BUBA SCHUH ●
Bleichenhof
Hanse Viertel
TORQUATO ● Galleria
Kaisergalerie
Kaufmannshaus
BUCKLES & BELTS ●
● BÄR-BEQUEMSCHUHE
● GÄRTNER
Grosse Bleichen
globalblue.com
CONRAD
Tech-lovers should not miss a visit to
electronic specialist Conrad. Founded in
1923, the company now has 25 stores across
Germany, including one in Hamburg,
and the brand ofers more than 600,000
products, undoubtedly one of the widest
ranges in the country. Global labels stocked
include Apple, Microsoft, Samsung, Nikon,
Logitech, Osram and a host of others.
For both business and leisure, whether
you’re looking for small accessories, a new
computer or the latest communications
technology, Conrad should be your frst
port of call. Seek out one of its eminently
knowledgeable resident experts and you
might just fnd that perfect gadget you
never even knew existed.
Conrad,
Wandsbeker Zollstrasse 67-69,
22041 Hamburg,
+49 (0)9604 408789,
conrad.de
SELECTED STORES IN
BLEICHENHOF:
CHARLOTTE HHFLECKMODELLHÜTE MONIKA STORE 4 KIDSWOHNGEFÜHL
SELECTED STORES IN
HANSE VIERTEL:
BARBOURBREECHEZ ELLESDELSEYDOUGLASEINS ZWEI DREIGRAF COXGÖRTZHANSE HAUS HAMBURG CLASSICSJACQUES BRITTKIRCHHOFF DONNAKIRCHHOFF ESTABLISHED
KONPLOTTLACOSTELA MODALEYSIEFFERMOOTZNOMINATION OPTIKER CARLPANDORAROECKL SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTYSANSIBARSCHACHT & WESTERICHTABACALERA HANSEATICATOTTVEGASWMF P.40
72 | GUIDE
PO
ST
ST
RA
SS
E
A
LSTERARKADEN
GROSSE BLEIC
HEN
JUN
GFER
NS
TIEG
B
ALLIN
DA
MM
ABC-STR AS
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GÄNSEMA
R
KT
SWATCH ●HEMDENSPEZI ●
MEISSEN ●CROCS ●
GODIVA CHOCOLATIER ●OREA LINGERIE ●
ALSTERARKADEN APOTHEKE ●BERNSTEINLADEN WALTER WITZKI ●
HERMANN STEGMANN ●DOUGLAS ●
LANGHAGEN & HARNISCH ●ALLIGATOR LEDERWAREN ●
SCHUHKAY ●VERO MODA ●
JEAND HEUR EMIL ●AUST DRESS ●
CIRO ●SCHUHHAUS PRANGE ●
LIU JO ●
RENÉ LEZARD ●
BUCHERER ●
ROBBE &BERKING ●
DONNA ●
APPLE ●GEOX ●
WEMPE ●LLOYD ●
TEE GSCHWENDNER ●
● ROTH’S ALTE ENGLISH APOTHEKE● AMERICAN APPAREL
● OPTIKER BODE● NIVEA HAUS
Hamburger Hof
Alsterhaus
Jungfernstieg & Alsterarkaden
SELECTED STORES IN
ALSTERHAUS:
1,2,3BREEBRIGITTE VON BOCHEYECATCHERH&MHUGO BOSSKARSTADTLONGCHAMPM NIEMYEROSCHÄTZCHEN IM ALSTERHAUS
SELECTED STORES IN
HAMBURGER HOF:
BREUNING TRAURINGLOUNGEFIL A FILDANIELS & KORFFGERRY WEBERGÖRTZ 17HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIEKLOCKMANNLEVI’SPETITE POUPETTESHOWROOM HAMBURGSTARLIGHT FEINE DAMENWÄSCHETABACALERA HANSEATICATITAN REISEGEPÄCKTORQUATO
Neuer Wall
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer Shopping Centre Department Store
Restaurant
M
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KEDA
MM
AMELUNGSTR.
A
LTERWALL
SCHAUENBURGERSTR.
PE
LZ
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ST
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NEUER WALL
NEUER W
ALL
BL
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NB
RÜ
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AD
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PH
SB
RÜ
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PO
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ST
RA
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M
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CKEBERGSTRASSE
JUN
GFER
NS
TIEG
BE
RG
ST
RA
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● D
OU
GLA
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● PATEK
PH
ILIPP
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● FR
EY W
ILLE
● M
AN
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● LA
DA
GE &
OELK
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● TU
MI
● C
AD
ENZ
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● C
ALID
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● N
EUH
AU
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● PA
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● TIFFA
NY
& CO
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● CO
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● M
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MA
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● U
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● LO
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UITTO
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● A
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● LA
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● TO
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● SA
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● JIL SA
ND
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● M
ON
CLER
● VA
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● JU
WELIER
MA
HLB
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● P
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● W
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● B
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● FA
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● S
TEFAN
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● M
AR
LIES MÖ
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● LA
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● S
TEINB
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● B
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● M
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● G
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MA
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● CH
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GEO
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●
THO
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●
HO
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PR
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MICH
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LON
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CA
MP
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BR
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& G
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MO
NTB
LAN
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& O
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CA
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●
BU
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WA
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WEITZ ●
BU
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PR
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RB
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MA
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●
SÖ
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LOR
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●
MIEN
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LA P
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●
LIZ MA
LRA
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DESIG
N ●
SØ
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MO
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LAN
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HA
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LIGN
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SET M
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TEMP
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RC C
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●
LIGN
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SET ●
BO
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HO
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DO
LCE &
GA
BA
NN
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ST. EM
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GA
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BR
ION
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POSTER ●GALERIE
● BUTIK
● BOGNER
● JOHN R
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CLOSED ●
● CHRIST
PO
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CH
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STO
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PEUTER
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G-STAR ● RAW
P.42
P.43
P.43
Featured In This Issue
SHOP | 73
Poststrasse
AMELUNGSTR.
NE
UE
R J
UN
GF
ER
NS
TIE
G
BÜ
SC
HS
TR
.
GE
RH
OF
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ALSTERARKADEN
HO
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B
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ABC-STR AS
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VALENTINSK AMP GÄNSEMARKT
PO
ST
ST
RA
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GROSSE BLEICHEN
ST
AD
TH
AU
SB
RÜ
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E
N
EUER WALL
BL
EIC
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NB
RÜ
CK
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● DIESEL
● HALLHUBER
● GÖRTZ 17
● H&M
● CAMPER
● ZARA
● PEUTEREY● PORSCHE DESIGN
● SAHLING
● BOSS
PEAK PERFORMANCE ●
CLOSED ●TIMBERLAND ●
KONPLOTT ●COMMA ●
STEFANEL ●TOM TAILOR ●
FLORENCEMODA ●
PUMA ●
A FELDENKIRCHEN ●
ES
PR
IT ●
A F
EL
DE
NK
IRC
HE
N ●
BE
LLY
BU
TT
ON
●U
MA
NI ●
● TOMMY HILFIGER ● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH
STUART WEITZMANN ●
RENÉ LEZARD
When Thomas Schaefer founded the René Lezard label in 1978, he did so with the idea of creating a modern, design-led premium brand for men and women that used only the highest quality materials. This philosophy remains at the core of the latest autumn/winter collection. In muted colours and with a relaxed silhouette, the pieces are elegant and stylish without being trend-driven. Warm fabrics such as cashmere and wool are used throughout the collection, giving the clothes an invitingly tactile look. Those seeking dressier items won’t be disappointed, as there are plenty of silk blouses, along with statement coats in foral jacquard.René Lezard, Jungfernstieg 34, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 419 1350, rene-lezard.com
globalblue.com
74 | GUIDE
GROSSE REICHENSTR .
PUMPEN
BRANDSENDE
KURZE MÜHREN
BUGENHAGENSTR .
NIEDERNSTR .
BURCHARDSTR.
LILI
EN
ST
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LILIE
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GLOCKENGIESSERWALL
MÖNCKEBERGS TR ASSE
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ALSTERTOR
KA
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SC
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TR
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DOVENFLEE T WILLY-BR ANDT-STR ASSE
WILLY- B R ANDT-STR ASSE
DOMSTRASSE
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Karstad
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Europa PassageB
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MO
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DA
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AR
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HIB
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Levantehaus
Galeria K
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SP
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●
CH
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● ULRICH STEIN
Karstad
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Peek &
Clo
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Ap
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Mönckebergstrasse & Bergstrasse
● EUROPA APOTHEKE
● MALVIN● FOTO-GREGOR
● SØR OSCAR LENIUS● GÖRTZ 17
● BUDNIKOWSKY IWAN
BE
RG
ST
RA
SS
E
G-STAR RAW ●HAGEL THE HAIR
COMPANY ●
CLOSED DAMEN ●
SELECTED STORES IN
GALERIA KAUFHOF
APRIORIBIBAPANDORATABAKBÖRSE IM KAUFHOF
SELECTED STORES IN
LEVANTEHAUS:
BADEORTCALVIN KLEINCOMPAGNIE COLONIALEDER ERZGEBIRGSLADENH -GALERIEJACKPOT
MARC O’ POLOMÄRKLINMASSIMO DUTTIPRINCESSE TAM TAMSAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTYSTEIFF GALERIESTRACOLANDSWAROVSKITOWN HOUSE
SELECTED STORES IN
EUROPA PASSAGE:
AKTIV SCHUHBETTEN SASSBIANCO FOOTWEARBIBABENETTONBIJOU BRIGITTEBONITABOSECECILCHRISTDOUGLASECCOEDCETERNAGABOR-LLOYD
GAMESTOPGÖRTZH&MHALLHUBERHANDELSHAUS LÄGELHÖGL SHOE FASHIONHOLLISTERIDEE CREATIVMARKTINFLAGRANTEJACKPOTKULTL’OCCITANEMONSOON / ACCESSORIZEMORE & MOREOAKLEY ODLOONE GREEN ELEPHANTPANDORA
PAPETERIE BATHELTPILGRIMSIERCKE SCHMUCKSTREET ONESTREET SUPER SHOESTALLY WEIJLTAMARISTCHIBOTETHALIATHE HAIR COMPANYTHEO WORMLANDTOM TAILORTOMMY CRYSTALTOMMY HILFIGER DENIMWMFZERO
SELECTED STORES IN
KARSTADT:
1,2,3APRIORIBIBADBHKARSTADT FEINKOSTSWAROVSKI
Non-Global Blue RetailerGlobal Blue Retailer Shopping Centre Department Store
P.40
P.41
Featured In This Issue
Designer Outlet
Neumünster, Oderstrasse 10, 24539 Neumünster, +49 (0)4321 558 6880, mcarthurglen.com
Opening times
Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pmSunday and public holidays: closed
DESIGNER OUTLET NEUMÜNSTER
HOW TO GET THERE
By car
From Hamburg: head north on the A7. Take exit 15 for Neumünster Süd and continue on the B205, following the signs for Designer Outlet.
From Neumünster: follow Altonaer Strasse (K16), turn left on to Oderstrasse and follow the signs directing you to the front entrance.
By bus
From Neumünster: take the 7 or 77, which leave from in front of the railway station.
By train
From Hamburg: take the RE21020 to Neumünster.
From Kiel: take the RE21023 to Neumünster.
By taxi
The journey takes approximately 40 minutes from Hamburg, Lübeck and Kiel.
PERFECT DAY
10am
Start the day at Gant
Footwear where American sportswear heritage and European style combine to create a casual lifestyle collection.
2pm
Adventurous types will love the collection of mountain-ready outfts on ofer at sportswear boutique Napapijri.
4pm
Find the perfect fnishing touches at Falke’s outlet store, which ofers everything from men’s socks to women’s hosiery.
6pm
7 For All Mankind’s range of premium denim provides the perfect ft, and there’s a complementary selection of footwear, bags and casualwear.
globalblue.com
12pm
Take time out with a cup of Schärf cofee and a snack at Tackmann’s
Cofee House.
SHOP | 75
76
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD,SHOP TAX FREE
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
+421 232 111 111
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
2. Claim
Refund Ofce details:
Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5
Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 Galeria Kaufof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5
Hamburg Airport Global Blue Terminal 1, afer security control, at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Go to check-in frst, ask for your labelled luggage and take it with you to customs. Customs stamps for luggage only at Terminal 1. Customs stamps for hand luggage behind security control at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service Centre, go to customs before check-in. Customs is situated beside the Global Blue OfceBerlin Schönefeld AirportTerminal A, Departures, landside, second foor to the right of the café bar. Go to customs before check-in.Downtown BerlinKaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (Customer Service Centre, 5th foor), 10178 Berlin
/87
84 87
globalblue.com
78
TRANSLATIONS
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
Торговая улица Neuer Wall в Гамбурге, изобилующая дизайнерскими бутиками и ювелирными салонами, – самое популярное место для роскошного шоппинга, – рассказывает Бет Дрюс
Когда речь заходит о самых лучших в Европе направлениях для эксклюзивного шоппинга, то Гамбург не самый первый город, который приходит на ум. Однако побывав в районе Neustadt, вы сможете открыть для себя один из самых
44: Hamburg’s Hot Spot
Модный Лабиринт
престижных шоппинг-кварталов Германии – Neuer Wall. Расположенный рядом с озером Бинненальстер между станциями метро Jungfernstieg и Stadthausbrücke, квартал буквально забит бутиками и с легкостью может конкурировать с самыми роскошными торговыми районами мира.
«Элитный торговый район вокруг Neuer Wall с его уютными улочками вдоль каналов и ажурными мостиками, один из самых элегантных в стране», – считает Ник Фостер из газеты «Financial Times». В 2006 году район, раскинувшийся на целый километр в длину, прошел реставрацию и за последующие 9 девять лет количество магазинов только выросло. Южная часть квартала вместила бутики наиболее
79
известных дизайнерских марок одежды, а также салоны интерьеров и мебели, кафе и рестораны.
Если вас интересуют кожаные сумки с принтом в пастельных оттенках, которые Миучча Прада презентовала во время шоу-показа коллекций осень-весна 2015/16, то Neuer Wall будет идеальным местом, чтобы изучить их в деталях. А огромный спектр представленных здесь международных брендов, включая Michael Kors, Mulberry и Longchamp, будет очень кстати всем, кто ищет роскошный аксессуар. Украшенные мехом и леопардовым принтом сумки Louis Vuitton непременно очаруют людей тонкого и смелого вкуса.
Эта часть Гамбурга также известна своими ювелирными салонами, включая такие ведущие бренды, как Cartier, Bulgari и Tifany & Co, а также роскошные часовые марки Omega и Montblanc. Уделите достаточно времени, чтобы познакомиться со всеми спрятанными здесь сокровищами, после чего можете отдохнуть в кафе и насладится своей покупкой. Café Engelchen – это элегантный кофе-хаус, расположенный на втором этаже; большие живописные окна позволят вам полюбоваться прекрасным видом на Neuer Wall.
В районе Neuer Wall можно найти немало старинных магазинов, один из них – Brahmfeld & Gutruf. Этот ювелирный салон хранит впечатляющую коллекцию красочных драгоценностей, украшенных ценными камнями и узорами с природными мотивами. Бутик можно посетить лишь для того, чтобы полюбоваться его внутренним убранством; в 2014 году он получил немецкую премию в области осветительного дизайна «Deutsche Lichtdesign Preis» за инновационную конструкцию из 48 тысяч светодиодов, создающих иллюзию разноцветного гамбургского неба.
Хотя такие районы, как Neuer Wall принято ассоциировать исключительно с роскошным рынком и брендами класса «премиум», за последние несколько лет ситуация начала заметно меняться, и здесь стало появляться все больше магазинов доступных брендов средней ценовой
категории. Среди недавно открытых – Cos и & Other Stories. В первом представлен большой ассортимент современных коллекций в сдержанных тонах, в то время как в & Other Stories вы найдете более веселую гамму красок и богатый выбор одежды, украшений, косметики и забавных аксессуаров, которые непременно подарят вам хорошее настроение.
От всех остальных торговых районов Neuer Wall отличает обилие мебельных салонов, расположенных напротив станции метро Stadthausbrücke. В их число входит голландский бренд Rivièra Maison, в салоне которого представлены предметы интерьера и коллекции мягкой мебели, вдохновленные самыми стильными городами Европы. Neuer Wall также приютил основанный более века назад магазин товаров для дома, где можно найти самые изысканные коллекции фарфора в Гамбурге.
Поклонники моды, следящие за актуальными тенденциями, обнаружат немало интересного в бутике Jil Sander. Эта марка была основана Сандер в Гамбурге в 1968 году, однако известность получила лишь в 1980-х. Оригинальный и часто копируемый стиль Сандер положил начало для движения минимализма 90-х годов и остается фаворитом среди поклонников èффектной, но сдержанной одежды.
Концепция престижных шоппинг районов мира может вызвать у некоторых образ огромного безличного пространства, но с Neuer Wall все обстоит по-другому – сочетание старинной европейской èлегантности и современной роскоши от Chanel, Prada и Bottega Veneta создает потрясающий èффект. Решающую роль здесь играет непередаваемая атмосфера, привлекающая туристов со всех уголков планеты. «éзящные улочки зигзагом протянулись на юг и на запад, отмеряя взглядом, роскошные магазины Neuer Wall и не менее роскошных прохожих», – замечает Франк Бруни из «Te New York Times». Нет сомнения, что Neuer Wall èто идеальное место, чтоб на других посмотреть и себя показать. neuerwall-hamburg.de
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Крупные ювелирные украшения появились во многих коллекциях сезона осень/зима. Доминик Фенн выясняет, почему теперь больше значит лучше
50: To The Max
На максимуме
разговоров? Похоже, что время немецкого минималистского нормкора постепенно проходит. И активное присутствие броских украшений и аксессуаров ручной работы на показах сезона осень/зима 2015/16 только подтверждает это.
Эстетика нормкора характеризуется крайней сдержанностью, лаконизмом и анти-стилем. В последнее время получил полное признание тренд на унисекс с его упрощенным, «нормальным» вкусом и умеренным использованием отделки. Все это помогает успешно смешаться с толпой, а не выделяться из нее.
Многие влиятельные дизайнеры отошли от простых оттенков черного, серого и синего в этом сезоне. Столь разительная перемена знаменует обращение к более выразительной манере. Например, одно из платьев Proenza Schouler покрывали 300000 блесток. Однако наиболее заметные перемены проявились в деталях. Если ювелирные коллекции создаются на века и призваны поведать удивительные истории, то сказка для сезона осень/зима 2015/16 будет яркой и необычной.
Если говорить об изменчивых трендах, то дух весны/лета 2015 проявлялся в цветочных, изящных, женственных тканях. Поэтому летние коллекции Valentino, Marni и Alexander McQueen отличались удивительной нежностью. Вполне естественно, что уравновесить и сбалансировать это призваны массивные вещи из плотных тканей.
Миучча Прада, со свойственной ей выдающейся проницательностью, обратилась сразу к нескольким модным десятилетиям — от 1960-х до 90-х. Однако наиболее явно в новой коллекции обращает на себя внимание блеск и роскошь 1980-х. Уши моделей украшали серьги – гигантские ромашки с яркими лепестками желтого, белого, красного и розового оттенков. На каждой второй паре с цветков спускались капельки с инкрустированным камнем. Яркие ожерелья органично дополняли каждый цветочный комплект.
Женщина в стиле Marni всегда готова к приключениям, и в этом сезоне серьги
Есть что-то завораживающее в звоне браслетов на запястье, в мелодичных звуках столкновения серебра и золота. А что может ярче показать вашу страсть к путешествиям, чем экзотические драгоценности и выразительные украшения, которые не останутся не замеченными и всегда будут поводом для
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с несколькими камнями и скульптурные браслеты естественных оттенков рассказывают о дальних странствиях. Givenchy представляет многочисленные кольца с перегородкой и псевдопирсинг: набор для каждой модели индивидуально разрабатывал визажист Пат МакГрат. Несмотря на нежность жемчужных аксессуаров, шоу провозглашало торжество женской силы. Это настроение удалось передать через выразительные узоры на лицах, сделав общий образ драматичным и даже агрессивным.
Бунтарский дух оказался присущ новой коллекции Balenciaga: дизайнер Александр Ванг соединил традиционные для бренда элементы со своими самыми
фантастическими идеями. Жемчужины, усыпавшие уши моделей, перекликались с декоративными кристаллами на юбках и обуви, придавая завершенность общей атмосфере роскоши.
Возрождение ювелирной сферы заметно не только на подиумах. Эксперты по трендам и инновациям из исследовательской
компании Stylus утверждают, что «интерактивные технологии внутри магазина и онлайн привносят в ювелирную розницу соблазнительные возможности персонализации и образования в общении с клиентами». Хай-тек и хай-тач, технологии и душевная связь с клиентом становятся все ближе друг к другу. И то, что посетитель получает в магазине, просто невозможно заменить онлайн.
Немецкий бренд часов и аксессуаров Tomas Sabo декларирует, что жизнь слишком коротка, чтобы носить скучные ювелирные украшения. Если вы с ним согласны, то обязательно побывайте в его бутике. Бусы и шармы серии Karma можно коллекционировать, добавляя новые элементы каждый сезон и создавая бесконечное количество вариаций. К сезону осень/зима 2015/16 марка выпустила яркие браслеты с цветочными мотивами и крупные коктейльные кольца с камнями оттенка зимних ягод.
Немецкий бренд Niessing предлагает собственное понимание укрупненных украшений. Его коллекция Phoenix напоминает архитектурный шедевр в миниатюрной форме. Ожерелье и браслет этой серии состоит из тонких овальных пластин из золота и платины, которые сцеплены между собой и символизируют бесконечную цикличность. Другое фирменное украшение, ожерелье Papyr, напоминает аккуратно сложенную цепочку из полоски золотой бумаги.
Ювелирные тренды могут варьироваться от сезона к сезону: сначала ценятся минималистские и лаконичные украшения, потом — уже нарочито яркие. Бренды Германии и всего мира с готовностью предлагают свои интерпретации этих образов. В итоге, большую роль играет сочетание трендовых ювелирных произведений с конкретными комплектами одежды. Чтобы позволить этим максималистским украшениям раскрыться, стоит подумать о простых ансамблях. miumiu.com, marni.com, givenchy.com, balenciaga.com, thomassabo.com, niessing.com P
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Александр Бреннинкмайер – из семьи основателей модного гиганта C&A. Джош Симс рассказывает о его собственном бренде – роскошном и вместе с тем доступном
Александру Бреннинкмайеру, вероятно, было предначертано сделать себе имя в сфере моды. Но вряд ли его семья ожидала, что для собственного бренда Clemens en August он изберет именно минималистскую роскошную эстетику. Фамилия Бреннинкмайеров прославилась в связи с C&A – крупным немецким брендом одежды и текстиля: в 70-80-е годы эта компания была в числе пионеров быстрой моды по доступным ценам.
На первый взгляд, собственный бренд Бреннинкмайера далек от массовой моды ровно настолько, чтобы привлечь внимание актера Джеймса Макэвоя, художницы и режиссера Сэм Тэйлор-Джонсон, модели Клаудии Шиффер, архитектора Рема Колхаса и других совсем не похожих друг на друга знаменитостей. В то же время, создатель марки глубоко убежден: дизайнерская одежда должна быть доступной по цене.
«Интересная одежда обладает отменным спросом – ровно до тех пор, пока вы не просите слишком много денег за нее, – рассказывает Бреннинкмайер, который сейчас озабочен привлечением инвестиций для расширения своего дела. – Например, я могу иногда позволить себе купить что–нибудь дорогое. И бывает, что я встречаю красивую дизайнерскую вещь, но я не готов заплатить 2000 евро за нее. Я лучше рискну подождать распродажи и буду надеяться, что останется мой размер, как и поступают сейчас многие люди».
Бреннинкмайер знает, о чем говорит. Поработав в C&A байером женских платьев и одежды для молодых мам, он выступил сооснователем влиятельной марки Kostas Murkudis. Руководствуясь собственным опытом, он может утверждать, что зачастую высокие цены – это результат стремительно растущих расходов на аренду и персонал.
56: Branching Out
Новый виток
Стильный, современный и в то же время классический мужской костюм Clemens en August, визитная карточка бренда, можно купить за 800 евро – примерно вдвое дешевле, чем обойдется аналогичный по качеству комплект другой марки. Чтобы удерживать цены на таком уровне, Бреннинкмайер ввел необычные способы продажи своих коллекций.
Так, вы не найдете Clemens en August в магазинах. Бреннинкмайер целенаправленно избегает работы с байерами, поскольку они выбирают самые перспективные с точки зрения продаж вещи и, тем самым, ломают целостность и атмосферу коллекции. Нет у бренда и собственных магазинов: он просто не может себе позволить престижный флагманский бутик – по крайней мере, при таких ценах на одежду. Вместо всего этого создатель компании каждый сезон путешествует со своими коллекциями, устраивая на несколько дней магазины в галереях и
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театрах. В этом сезоне его можно встретить в Лондоне, Цюрихе, Вене, Гамбурге, Кельне и четырех других крупных городах Германии.
Поклонникам стоит заранее отмечать нужные даты в своем календаре, чтобы успевать делать покупки на весь сезон. А еще лучше – стараться опережать других, поскольку каждая вещь выпускается ограниченным тиражом. «В этом много личного. Люди знакомятся друг с другом, и они чувствуют эту близость, которая делает их особенными. Именно так общаются между собой участники частного клуба», – утверждает Бреннинкмайер. Такой несколько усложненный доступ к коллекциям марки стал ее фирменным знаком, и разумеется, это ни капли не вредит Clemens en August.
«Мы уделяем очень много внимания нашему продукту и во многом функционируем автономно», – размышляет руководитель. По его словам, это создает вовлеченность: «В моде мы часто хотим
именно то, что не можем получить, и именно поэтому наш подход эффективен. Конечно, существуют и более дешевые бренды, но у них нет такого кроя, таких тканей и такой атмосферы. Мы же всему этому можем уделять намного больше внимания, поскольку у нас нет всех этих традиционных для брендов расходов. Когда мы только начинали, мы хотели открыть всего один, но по-настоящему впечатляющий магазин. А потом посчитали, что это будет стоить нам около 10 миллионов евро. В итоге мы просто пригласили своих друзей, а они позвали своих, чтобы посмотреть, чем мы занимается. И в тот же вечер мы все продали».
Бренд Clemens en August намного ближе к общему делу большой семьи Бреннинкмайеров, чем может показаться. Если обратиться к истокам названия компании C&A, откроется, что ее основали Клеменс и Август. И что именно в честь них Бреннинкмайер назвал свою марку. Именно
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76: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру,
совершайте их с Tax Free
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
1. В магазинеГде бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.
2. При выездеВозвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
Контакты:[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
美文翻译
44: Hamburg’s Hot Spot
汉堡的热门景点
诺伊瓦尔街上设计师时装和高端珠宝精品店云集,
是不可错过的奢侈购物圣地。Beth Druce为您讲述
说起欧洲的奢华购物目的地,首先映入人们脑海的
可能并不是汉堡。但是在Neustadt区,您会发现诺
伊瓦尔街(Neuer Wall)已悄然成为一处高档购物
街区。诺伊瓦尔街从内阿尔斯特湖畔(Inner Alster
lake/Binnenalster)的少女堤(Jungfernstieg)一
直延伸到Stadthausbrücke,街上时尚大牌云集,完
全可以和世界上任何奢侈购物中心相媲美。
Nick Foster曾在《金融时报》上称赞道:“诺
伊瓦尔街周边的高端购物街区覆盖纵横交错的运河
和小桥,堪称全德国最优雅时尚的购物区之一。”
2006年,长达一千多米的诺伊瓦尔街翻新重建,在
过去的九年中,商店数量逐渐增加;尤其在诺伊瓦尔
街的南侧,汇集了诸多高档设计师品牌,亦有许多装
饰和家居商店、咖啡店和餐厅。
如果您被缪西娅·普拉达(Miuccia
Prada)2015/16秋冬时装秀推出的印花淡彩双拉链
手袋所吸引,那么您可以在诺伊瓦尔街上近距离大
饱眼福。这里荟萃了诸如Michael Kors、Mulberry
和Longchamp等国际知名品牌,是物色奢侈配饰
的理想去处。对于更加前卫大胆的消费者而言,细
腻柔软的路易威登(Louis Vuitton)豹纹手提包不
啻为完美的选择。
汉堡的诺伊瓦尔街还坐拥大量珠宝精品店,其
中不乏卡地亚(Cartier)、宝格丽(Bulgari)和蒂芙
尼(Tifany & Co)等享誉全球的名牌,奢侈钟表制
造商欧米茄(Omega)和万宝龙(Montblanc)也赫
然在列。您可以尽情挑选众多做工精致的名品,然后
再找一家咖啡馆小餐一顿或小酌一杯,想想是不是
也来做一笔这样的投资。Café Engelchen是一家高
档优雅的二楼咖啡屋,透过咖啡屋的大玻璃,您可
以观察街上络绎不绝的行人和他们的考究衣着。
在诺伊瓦尔街,您还可以看到一些汉堡最古
老的零售商,其中就包括珠宝商Brahmfeld &
Gutruf。色彩斑斓的珠宝珍品上满是光怪陆离的
自然图案,一枚枚稀世宝石点缀其间。光是店铺别
具一格的内部装潢就值得一看:小店别出心裁地使
用了四万八千支LED灯,创造出流光溢彩的汉堡
天空,这一设计也于2014年荣获德国照明设计奖
(Deutsche Lichtdesign Preis)。
虽然诺伊瓦尔街几乎是高档奢侈时尚品牌的代
名词,但近年来,一些融合前沿潮流、亲民价格和精
品店购物体验的新生代高街品牌横空出世。新近在
эти братья первыми стали продавать сшитую ими одежду необычным способом, который к 1841 году захватил Европу: безо всякого магазина, они путешествовали по городам и весям, и продавали высококачественные ткани напрямую простым крестьянам. Бренд Clemens en August делает примерно то же самое в наши дни. Только его покупатели, кажется, одеваются несколько лучше.clemensenaugust.com
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诺伊瓦尔街开张的Cos和& Other Stories就是其
中两个例子。Cos主营时尚简约且配色考究的服饰,
而& Other Stories则是一家趣味横生的时尚生活
馆。店内的服装、珠宝、化妆品和新奇饰品定会让您
饶有兴致,流连忘返。
然而,让诺伊瓦尔街从其他设计师时尚街区中
脱颖而出的,还是Stadthausbrücke附近大量的家
居店。这其中就有荷兰品牌Rivièra Maison,该店
陈列着一系列室内装潢和装饰品,这些作品的设计
灵感均取自于欧洲各大时尚之都。诺伊瓦尔街上还
有百年家居零售品牌Weitz,其店内出售全汉堡最上
乘的精品瓷器。
说起高端国际购物中心,人们脑中往往浮现出
遥不可及、高高在上的奢华空间,但是诺伊瓦尔街
的Chanel、Prada和Bottega Veneta们完美融合了
传统的欧洲风韵和现代奢华,展示出非凡的吸引力。
诺伊瓦尔街的迷人魅力越来越受到海内外游客的青
睐。Frank Bruni曾在《纽约时报》中建议道:“穿
梭在通向南面和西面的蜿蜒窄巷中,您可以尽情探
访诺伊瓦尔街区的奢侈品商店,打量穿着考究的往
来顾客。”身处诺伊瓦尔街,你既能看风景,亦成为
风景中的一部分。
neuerwall-hamburg.de
50: To The Max
大即是美
夸张尺寸的珠宝首饰成为今年秋冬季多个品牌的设
计风格。Dominique Fenn为您揭秘大尺寸突然走
红的原因
手镯在手腕上互相敲击的声音让人愉悦,宛若闪耀
的金与银演奏的美妙旋律。然而还有什么比充满异
国风情的宝石,或是特立独行的气场珠宝,更能体现
一个人游历广泛,并且能轻松打开话题的呢?种种现
象表明,德国式的极简风normcore运动正式告一段
落,设计大胆的珠宝与手工配饰在2015/16年秋冬秀
场上大行其道。
所谓的normcore美学是一种极度低调、简化一
切和反时尚的风格。近年来其被认为是中性化趋势
的一种,并以简化、“普通”的风格呈现,主要特征
是缺乏细节,让穿戴者隐入人群而非脱颖而出。本
季,大批具有国际影响力的设计师们,纷纷展现出
显著的方向性转变,从大量的简单色调如黑色、灰色
和海军蓝色,转变为更为华丽的风格——Proenza
Schouler的某条连衣裙上装饰着30万枚亮片。真正
的变化体现在更为精致的细节上。长久以来,珠宝都
诉说着美妙且独特的故事,而2015/16年秋冬的故事
则是响亮且充满自豪的。
当谈到本季的整体趋势, 2015年春夏的神髓是
缀满花朵与细腻、女性化的面料,Valentino、Marni
和Alexander McQueen等品牌纷纷带来不食人间
烟火的空灵设计。所以理所应当由厚重与夸张尺寸风
格来加以平衡。杰出的趋势预测家Miuccia Prada在
最新的Miu Miu系列中,向之前几十年的不同风格
寻求灵感,从1960年代直到1990年代,当然1980年
代的闪光华丽风格最为抢眼。超大的耳环看起来像
是巨大的雏菊,装饰着明亮的黄色、白色、红色与粉
色花瓣。每相隔一片花瓣都带有垂坠设计,即在花瓣
上镶嵌着垂下的水晶。与之配套的项链完整打造出
繁花锦簇的造型。
穿Marni的女人总是散发着冒险气质,本季的多
宝石耳环与自然色雕塑感手镯,诉说着长途旅行中
的轶事。在Givenchy,多重鼻环与珠宝打造出的穿
孔效果,被造型师Pat McGrath运用在每名模特身
上。即便装饰她们脸庞的是细腻的珍珠,这仍是通过
面部装饰来强调女性力量的声明,整体造型充满戏
剧性与攻击性。Balenciaga同样散发着叛逆气息,设
计师Alexander Wang以迄今为止最戏剧化的手法
演绎品牌的传统风格。模特的耳朵上覆盖着多层珍
珠耳环,镶嵌于裙装与鞋履之上的装饰性水晶,更为
其平添几分奢华。
在秀场以外,珠宝零售业也重新焕发活力。根
据潮流与创新研究专业机构Stylus所指出,“互动技
术,无论在商店内或网络上,都为珠宝零售增添个性
化定制与市场教育的诱人新层次”。高科技和高触
感的世界正在发生碰撞,店内体验与线上体验无法
互相替代。
德国腕表与珠宝制造商Thomas Sabo曾表示,
人生苦短不可接受无聊的珠宝。造访该品牌店铺是
所有珠宝爱好者的例行公事,他们同样将此口头禅
视为金科玉律。品牌的Karma系列串珠与吊坠可被
单独收集,然后组合起来,每一季品牌都会推出新
的吊坠,从而衍生出无穷无尽的变化。在2015/16年
秋冬该品牌还推出了装饰有花朵中心图案的气场手
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镯,以及装点着冬季浆果色调宝石的超大尺寸鸡尾
酒戒指。
另一个推出夸张尺寸珠宝的德国品牌则是
Niessing。品牌的Phoenix系列是建筑美学的微小
缩影。象征永恒重复周期的薄薄圆片,被大量衔接打
造出项链与手链,并有黄金与铂金款可选。Papyr项
链则是另一款雕塑般的珠宝,看上去就像是一串精
心折叠的黄金纸环。
珠宝界的趋势可以从这一季的极简柔和,摇身
一变为下一季的奔放奢华,国际设计师品牌与德国
本土品牌们纷纷推出自己的演绎版本。作为服饰的
点睛之笔,最重要的还是将这些潮流珠宝单品与服
饰互相搭配。为凸显这些气场十足的耀眼珠宝,在
服饰搭配上请务必以简单为标准。
miumiu.com, marni.com, givenchy.com,
balenciaga.com, thomassabo.com, niessing.com
56: Branching Out
开枝散叶
Alexander Brenninkmeijer的家族创立了零售巨头
C&A,如今他经营着自己的时尚品牌。他的品牌时
髦又价格亲民,Josh Sims带你一起逛逛
或许Alexander Brenninkmeijer不可避免地会在时
尚史册上留下自己的名字。但是他的品牌Clemens
en August的男装与女装系列所表达出的极简
主义美学,或许是他的亲属们从未曾料的发展方
向。Brenninkmeijer的家族掌控着德国纺织和时装
零售巨头C&A,品牌在70与80年代开创了一种以平
民价格贩售愉悦快时尚的商业模式。
Brenninkmeijer的品牌乍一看与高街时尚毫无
关联,其拥趸包括演员James McAvoy、 艺术家兼
导演 Sam Taylor-Johnson、模特 Claudia Schifer
与建筑师Rem Koolhaas。然而,品牌同时秉承着
Brenninkmeijer的理念:设计师品牌并不一定要惊
人昂贵。
“对于有趣的服饰而言市场非常广阔,只要你
别要价过高,”这位正在为大举扩张融资的创业家
指出。“从我个人而言,有时我的确买得起更贵的东
西。我可能会看上一件不错的设计单品,但绝不会出
2000欧元去购买。我宁愿冒风险等打折季,看到时
有没有自己的尺码,这也是许多人的策略。”
Brenninkmeijer应该深谙此道。在为C&A担
任女装连衣裙与孕妇装买手后,他还曾共同创立了
颇具影响力的Kostas Murkudis品牌。他表示, 价
格压力往往来自于物业租金和人力成本的快速上
涨。
在Clemens en August,摩登经典男士西服只
卖800欧元一套,几乎是其他品牌同样品质商品的
一半。为了保持低价,Brenninkmeijer采用激进的
销售技巧。
你在任何商店中都找不到Clemens en
August。Brenninkmeijer想要避免买手们只挑
选最具商业价值的单品,而破坏了整个系列的感
觉。Clemens en August也没有任何自己的门店。
品牌无法负担一间旗舰店——至少在其价格没有上
涨之前。与之相反的,Brenninkmeijer带着每季产
品到处巡回,在不同的艺术画廊或剧场开设几天临
时店铺。目前,他正在访问伦敦、苏黎世、维也纳、汉
堡、科隆和其他四座德国主要城市。
粉丝们会事先把品牌巡展日期记在日程本上,
前往——或冲进店铺,因为每件单品都限量贩
售——购买当季产品。“这是非常私人化的体验,人
们彼此可以互相了解,他们还可以近距离观察面料,
这是让人们觉得与众不同的原因。大家会有一种私
人俱乐部的感觉,”他表示。自然,这不会对Clemens
en August品牌构成任何伤害,这种限制购买的手
法反而赋予其魅力。
“我们非常注重产品,并以不同寻常的模式运
营,”他解释道。他表示,这种做法创造出一种局内
人的优势且收效极佳,“因为对时尚产品我们往往追
逐自己得不到的。自然,还有许多品牌比我们便宜很
87
多,”他补充,“但他们没有我们的剪裁、面料或触感。
并且我们可以专注于此,因为没有普通时尚品牌的日
常开销。当我们刚开始运作时,曾试图开设一间宏伟
的店铺,却发现会耗费一千万欧元。最终我们邀请
朋友与他们的朋友一起前来,看看他们会不会喜欢
我们设计的产品。当时我们的品牌甚至没有名字。但
在一个晚上所有的产品都销售一空。”
虽说并不显而易见,但Clemens en August的
品牌精神更接近于其家族品牌。追溯C&A品牌的根
源,即品牌创始兄弟Messrs Clemens与 August,
而Brenninkmeijer正是以他们的名字为自己的品
牌命名。两兄弟在1841年创立的公司,同样通过以
与众不同的方式制造并销售服饰,而成为泛欧洲时
尚业巨擎:同样没有门店,他们在不同区域之间巡
回,向囊中羞涩的农民们直接出售高品质面料。今日
Clemens en August品牌所做的并无二致,区别仅
仅是顾客们更喜欢打扮了。
clemensenaugust.com
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时,
环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free
Shopping)为您节约购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global
Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只
是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
(Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税
过程:
1. 消费购物
无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格
(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小
票。
2. 申请退税
当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台
请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联
的退税点领取您的退税款。
联系方式:
+421 232 111 111
最低消费€25即可节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请
注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣除管
理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取
现金退税手续费。
76: When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
تقدم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blue خدمة التسوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Free لتدخر الال لدى تسوقك ف أكث من 270,000
متجر ف أبرز مناطق التسوق حول العال.فلم ل تنضم إل الـ 26 مليون مسافر الذين يتسوقون من دون دفع
الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو Global Blue كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل Global Blue أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو
وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة.
1. تسوقأينم تسوقت، أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة الخاص بغلوبل
بلو Global Blue وتذكر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.
2. أطلبف طريق العودة إل وطنك، أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة
لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الستداد الخاصة بنا.
للتصال:[email protected]
+421 232 111 111
أنفق حدا أدن قدره 25€ وادخر حتى %14.5 من ثن مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل
القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري. ف بعض الطارات، يفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد
فوري نقدي.
When You Shop The World,
Shop Tax Free: 76
عندما تتسوق حول العال، تسوق من دون دفع الضيبة
كم لو أن لديهم بطاقة عضوية لنادي خاص.” وبالطبع ينح هذا النفاذ شبه .Clemens en August الحدود علمة فارقة لـ
ي”ح Brenninkmeijer قائل: “نركز عل النتج ونعمل تقريبا بعيدا عن النظار.” المر الذي يعطي عملنا طابعا “يا ويناسبنا “إذ غالبا ما نتوق ف الزياء إل ما ل يكننا تحقيقه. بالطبع ثة علمات تجارية أخرى أرخص منا بكثي، لكنها ل تبع عل مستوى التصميم أو القمشة أو
ه إل كل ذلك لننا ل نحمل عبء النفقات العتيادية الذوق. يكننا التنبالتي تتكبدها العلمات الخرى ف مجال الزياء. ف البداية، فكرنا بافتتاح
متجر مذهل واحد ل غي، لكننا أدركنا أنه سيكلفنا حوال ع”ة مليي يورو. فاكتفينا بدعوة بعض الصدقاء وأصدقائهم للمجيء لنى إن سيحبون ما
نصمم. ل يكن للعلمة إسم بعد آنذاك، لكننا بعنا كل شء ف ليلة واحدة.”تبقى علمة Clemens en August أقرب إل قيم
الؤسسة العائلية مم يبدو. بالعودة إل أصل إسم C&A، تجد الخوين Clemens وAugust، مؤسس ال”كة التي استوحى منها
Brenninkmeijer إسم علمته. أنشأ الخوان ما بات سنة 1841
العملق الوروب ف صناعة اللبس وبيعها بطرق مبتكرة: ل يكن للخوين محل، بل كانوا ينتقلون من منطقة إل أخرى يبيعون أقمشة عالية الجودة
لزارعي غي ميسين. تقوم Clemens en August اليوم بالشء نفسه تقريبا، لكن يرتدي زبائنها ملبس أفضل.
clemensenaugust.com
globalblue.com
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Branching Out: 56
مد البساط
أسست عائلة Alexander Brenninkmeijer الشكة العملقة C&A وهو يدير حاليا علمة تجارية خاصة به ف مجال الزياء، تقرير
Josh Sims
Alexander Brenninkmeijer ربا كان من الحتم أن يبز إسمعل ساحة الزياء، لكن من الرجح أل يكون معظم أقاربه قد توقعوا منه اعتمد السلوب البسط النيق ف اللبس الرجالية والنسائية من علمته Brenninkmeijer أسست عائلة .Clemens en August
الشكة اللانية العملقة ف مجال القمشة والزياء C&A التي قدمت ف السبعينات والثمنينات أزياء مرحة بأسعار معقولة.
يبدو للوهلة الول أن علمة Brenninkmeijer بعيدة كلالبعد عن الزياء الجاهزة ف السوق كم هو متوقع من علمة يرتدي
تصاميمها أشخاص متعددون كالمثل James McAvoy والخرجة Claudia Schiffer وعارضة الزياء Sam Taylor-Johnson
والهندس Rem Koolhaas. لكن يدرك Brenninkmeijer أنه ليس من الضوري أن تكون ابتكارات الصمم باهظة الثمن.
يقول رجل العمل الذي يشيد حاليا مبنى بهدف التوسع: “يكن زة بسهولة ما ل تطلب ثنها غاليا. ف بعض الحيان، تسويق اللبس المييكنني شخصيا أن أشتي شيئا باهظ الثمن. قد تعجبني قطعة تصميم
لكنني ل أدفع ثنها ألفي يورو. بل أفضل أن أجازف وأنتظر فتة التنزيلت آمل أن تبقى القطعة عل قياس، وهذا ما يفعله كثيون الن.”
ل بد أن Brenninkmeijer مدرك لذلك. بعد أن شغل منصب منسق ملبس نسائية ومسؤول عن “اء ملبس المومة لد” C&A، شارك
ف تأسيس علمة Kostas Murkudis الشهية. يشح أن ارتفاع ل.
السعار ينجم عن زيادة سيعة ف بدلت اليجار وتكاليف العمClemens en يكن “اء بدلة رجالية كلسيكية عصية أنيقة من
August با يقارب 800 يورو، أي نصف سعر الجودة نفسها ف مكان
Brenninkmeijer آخر. وللمحافظة عل السعار العقولة، اعتمدتقنية بيع مبتكرة.
لن تجد علمة Clemens en August ف الحلت. ل يشأ Brenninkmeijer أن يختار الشتون أكث القطع التجارية ويشوهون
طابع مجموعة كاملة. كذلك ليس لـ Clemens en August أي متاجر خاصة ف أي مكان. ذلك ببساطة لنها ل تتحمل تكاليف محل
رئيس راق، إل عل القل، ف حال رفعت أسعار ملبسها. بل يجول جموعته كل موسم وينشئ محل لبضعة أيام ف Brenninkmeijerب
معرض فني أو مسح. يقوم حاليا بجولة ف لندن وزيورخ وفيينا وهامبورغ وكولونيا وأربع مدن ألانية رئيسية أخر”.
ي العلمة عن التواريخ مسبقا ليدونوها ويأتون بسعة، يتم إطلع محبأو بالحر” بأسع ما يكن، ليشتوا للموسم با أن كل قطعة محدودة
الكمية. يقول ف هذا الصدد: “إنه حدث شخص بحيث يتعرف الناس عل زين. يتصفون بعضهم البعض ويرون القمشة عن كثب، ما يجعلهم ممي
ومناهضة الرائج. وقد بات مؤخرا موضة للرجال والنساء؛ يتمتع بأسلوب بسيط و”عادي” مع غياب واضح للتفاصيل، ما يتيح للشخص الندماج مع
ز عنها. يشي التحول الستعراض الذي قام نة بدل من التمي مجموعة معيبه عدد ل يستهان به من الصممي العاليي الرموقي هذا الوسم عن
ألوان السود والرمادي والكحل البسيطة، إل عودة مرحب بها إل السلوب البهرج – فقد زين ثوب لد” Proenza Schouler بثلثة آلف
قطعة ترتر. وظهر الت–يي الحقيقي ف التفاصيل الكث دقة. مع مرور الزمن، تروي مجموعات الجوهرات قصصا جميلة ل مثيل لها، وقصة خريف/شتاء
2015/16 مدوية ومعتزة.
ف ما يتعلق بوضة هذا الوسم الشاملة، نلحظ استمرارية روح ربيع/صيف 2015 ف أقمشة أنثوية ناعمة مزخرفة بالزهار وبخاصة ف
Alexander McQueenو Marniو Valentino مجموعاتالثيية الرائعة. لذا من الطبيعي أن توازي القطع الكبية الضخمة ذلك.
Miu مجموعة Miuccia Prada استوحت متقبة الوضة البارعةMiu الخية من عقود ماضية، بالتحديد من الستينات حتى التسعينات،
بالرغم من تركز النظار عل سحر وبريق الثمنينات. بدت القراط الكبية كأقحوانات ضخمة ذات بتلت صفراء وبيضاء وحمراء وزهرية. وتثلت
التصاميم الخر” بحجرة مطعمة بالكريستال متدلية من الزهرة. واكتملت الطللة التمحورة حول الزهار بقلدات مناسبة.
تعب تصاميم Marni دوما عن روح ال–امرة وتتحدث القراط الكثية الحجار والساور الصقولة ذات اللوان الطبيعية هذا الوسم عن أسفار
قصية. ابتكرت أخصائية التجميل Pat McGrath لكل عارضة أزياء لد” Givenchy حلقات متعددة للحاجز النفي وثقوبا مزيفة محشوة
بالجواهر. بالرغم من تزيي وجوه العارضات بالللئ الناعمة، سلط ذلك الضوء زت الطللة الشاملة بالدراماتيكية عل قوة الرأة من خلل زخرفة الوجه وتيوالعنف. كم ظهرت روح التمرد لد” Balenciaga حيث دمج الصمم
Alexander Wang رموز الدار التقليدية مع رؤيته التي قد تكون
الكث دراماتيكية للعلمة حتى الن. انحجبت الذان بطبقات متعددة من أقراط اللؤلؤ وزادت الطللة فخامة بقطع مرصعة بالكريستال زينت التناني
والحذية.بعيدا عن منصات عرض الزياء، جر” أيضا تحديث قطاع الجوهرات.
بحسب خباء الوضة والبتكار ف مركز البحث Stylus، “تساهم التكنولوجيا التفاعلية ف التاجر وعب النتنت ف إضافة طبقات م–رية جديدة
من التخصيص والثقافة إل قطاع الجوهرات.” يجري التصادم بي عالي التقنية العالية والعلقة البا“ة بي التاجر والزبون، والحقيقة أنه ل يكن عب
النتنت تقديم التجربة نفسها كتلك داخل التجر. ،Thomas Sabo يقول صانع الساعات وصائغ الجوهرات اللانالحياة قصية جدا للتزين بجوهرات مملة. ل بد لي شخص يهو” الجوهرات
Karma ويؤمن بهذه القولة أن يزور أحد متاجره. يكن جمع خرزات الـوالحل التي يبتكرها وتركيب القطع مع بعضها البعض، كم يكن إضافة
حل جديدة كل موسم وخلق تصاميم ل تحص. لخريف/شتاء 2015/16، تقدم العلمة أيضا أساور تتوسطها الزهار وخواتم ضخمة مرصعة بالحجار
والجواهر بألوان العليق الشتوي.من العلمات التجارية اللانية الخر” التي تصنع مجوهرات مبال–افيها، علمة Niessing. تشكل مجموعة Phoenix روعة هندسية
بحجم ص–ي. تتصل ببعضها البعض أقراص بيضاوية رقيقة تشي إل دورات تتكرر إل البد لتولد قلدة وسوارا باللون الذهبي أو البلتيني. وتشكل قلدة Papyr قطعة متكلفة أخر”، توحي أنها سلسلة أوراق ذهبية مثنية بإتقان.
قد تت–ي الوضة ف الجوهرات من البسيطة والتحفظة ف موسم، إل الجريئة والصارخة ف الوسم التال، ويقدم الصممون العاليون والعلمات اللانية
عل حد سواء، تفسيهم الخاص لهذه الساليب. وتتمثل اللمسات الخية ف طريقة التنسيق بي قطع الجوهرات هذه الجارية للموضة وبي اللبس. لذا
فة، اختاري ملبس بسيطة. إفساحا بالجال أمام لعان هذه القطع التكل،miumiu.com ،marni.com ،givenchy.com
balenciaga.com ،thomassabo.com ،niessing.com
89
ترجمة باللغة العربية
Hamburg’s Hot Spot: 44
مركز الفخامة ف هامبورغ
Neuer لوفرة محلت الزياء الراقية والجوهرات الرفيعة الستو” ف شارعBeth Druce بات الكان الفضل للتسوق الفاخر، تقرير ،Wall
لد” التفكي بأماكن التسوق الفاخرة ف أوروبا، قد ل تكون هامبورغ Neustadt الدينة الول التي تطرأ عل البال. لكنك ستجد ف منطقةتحول شارع Neuer Wall إل منطقة تسوق راقية. يتد من محطة
القطارات Jungfernstieg عل بحية Inner Alster حتى محطة Stadthausbrücke، يضم دور أزياء متعددة ويكنه منافسة أكث
زا ف العال. مناطق التسوق تي“منطقة التسوق الفاخرة الحيطة بـ Neuer Wall، بشوارعها الوزعة فوق شبكة من القنوات والجسور، هي الرقى ف البلد” عل حدتعبي Nick Foster ف مجلة Financial Times. يتد هذا
الشارع لكث من كيلومت وقد رمم سنة 2006 وازداد عدد الحلت فيه تدريجيا ف السنوات التسع الاضية. يضم الجزء الجنوب منه بالتحديد، علمات تجارية راقية لصممي أزياء بالضافة إل محلت ديكور وأثاث
ومقاهي ومطاعم.إن لفتت انتباهك حقائب اليد الجلدية النقوشة الزدوجة
السحابات والناعمة اللوان التي حملتها Miuccia Prada لعارضات الزياء ليتنحن بها عل منصة العرض لخريف/شتاء 2015/16، فإن
Neuer Wall هو الكان الثال لرؤيتها عن كثب. الواقع أنه بفضل
Michael Kors العلمات التجارية العالية التي يضمها، با فيهاوMulberry وLongchamp، يشكل هذا الشارع الكان الثمل
Louis لشاء الكسسوارات. حقائب اليد الكثية الفراء بنقش الفهد منVuitton خيار ممتاز لذوي الذواق الجازفة.
كم يضم هذا الجزء من هامبورغ عددا من دور الجوهرات با فيها Tiffany &و Bulgariو Cartier أسمء رفيعة الستو” عل سبيلCo وصانعي ساعات فاخرة مثل Omega وMontblanc. خصص
زة، قبل أن تتوجه إل مقهى بعض الوقت للتمعن بتشكيلة من القطع الميCafé Engelchen .وتتلذذ بطعام أو مشوب وتتأمل هكذا استثمر
مقهى راق ف الطابق الثان، بفضل نوافذه الكبية، يشكل نقطة ممتازة لراقبة
زبائن Neuer Wall التأنقي.ويتواجد ف Neuer Wall بعض أقدم تجار هامبورغ ومنهم صائغ
ز بقطعه الزخرفة الجوهرات Brahmfeld & Gutruf الذي يتمياللونة الرصعة بالحجار الكرية والغنية بالتصاميم الغريبة الستوحاة من
ز؛ حاز سنة 2014 الطبيعة. تكفي زيارة الحل لديكوره الداخل الميDeutsche Lichtdesign Preis جائزة التصميم الضوئ اللانية
لستخدامه البتكر لـ 48 ألف لبة LED توحي بتغي لون سمء هامبورغ.بالرغم من ارتباط بعض الناطق عل سبيل Neuer Wall بدور
أزياء راقية وفاخرة، شهدت السنوات الخية بروز عدد من العلمات التجارية الختصة باللبس الجاهزة فصهرت تجربة التسوق الراقية بأساليب مبتكرة
Neuer Wall، رائجة وأسعار مقبولة. من السمء التي افتتحت مؤخرا ف. يقدم الول مجموعات عصية بسيطة Cos و
قائة عل ألوان مدروسة، ف حي يشكل مساحة أزياء وأسلوب حياة يحلو فيها التجول. يكنك أن تض ساعات تتفقد تشكيلة
اللبس والجوهرات ومستحضات التجميل والكسسوارات الخلقة التي يضمها.
ز Neuer Wall عن مناطق دور الزياء الراقية الخر”، إل أن ما ييهي مجموعة متاجر الثاث الواقعة لناحية Stadthausbrücke. ومنها العلمة الهولندية Rivièra Maison التي تعرض أكسسوارات للمنازل
زة من ومجموعات أقمشة وبياضات مستوحاة من بعض الدن الوروبية الميحيث السلوب. كم تضم Neuer Wall العلمة العريقة الختصة بلوازم
النزل Weitz، التي تشمل أفخر مجموعات الخزف ف هامبورغ. .Jil Sander سيجد متتبعو الوضة أمورا كثية يحبونها ف متجر
أسس Sander العلمة ف هامبورغ سنة 1968 لكنها ل تحقق الشهرة إل ف الثمنينات. يتمتع Sander بأسلوب فريد من نوعه، يقلد باستمرار من
دون أي تحسن، وقد مهد الطريق للسلوب البسط ف التسعينات وما زال ي الزياء الذين ييلون إل التصاميم التقنة وغي التكلفة. الفضل لد” محب
قد يوحي مبدأ منطقة تسوق عالية فاخرة بساحات ل ناس فيها، لكن بفضل دمج Neuer Wall للناقة الوروبية القدية بالفخامة العصية من خلل Chanel وPrada وBottega Veneta، كسبت تألقا
Frank ملحوظا. تزداد شهرتها كمكان مقصود من كل حدب وصوب. قالBruni ف صحيفة The New York Times: “تجول ف الشوارع
الضيقة شمل وجنوبا واحص الحلت الفاخرة والتسوقي الثرياء ف محيط Neuer Wall.” يبدو أنه من الجدير رؤية هذه النطقة والتواجد فيها.
neuerwall-hamburg.de
To The Max: 50
مغالة
سادت قطع الجوهرات الضخمة ف معظم الجموعات لهذا الخريف/الشتاء. تستكشف Dominique Fenn س التحول الفاجئ لكل ما هو أكب
إل أفضل
ثة ما يبعث الطمنينة ف رني الساور عل العصم، إنه لحن الفضة اللمعة والنوتات الذهبية. وهل من شء يدل عل كثة السفار أكث من الجواهر
الغريبة والقطع الفريدة من نوعها التي تضمن بدء حديث مع الخرين؟ ف ما لربا كان إشارة إل نهاية حركة السلوب اللان العادي التواضع البسيط،
سادت الجوهرات الكبية والكسسوارات الشغولة يدويا عل منصات عروض أزياء خريف/شتاء 2015/16.
ز السلوب العادي التواضع أي normcore بالتحفظ والتواضع يتمي
90 | PRODUCTS
SOUVENIR
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76
craftsmanship. The removable shoulder strap
and roomy size make this bag a practical choice
for both shopping and travelling. Named
Ophelia after the famous Shakespearean
character, the bag comes in a wide variety of
colours including new splatter-efect models in
grey and red as well as brown and white. th
Knights & Roses Ophelia handbag, €399,
Birgit Grabbert, Hofweg 21, 22085 Hamburg,
+49 (0)40 220 4073,
knightsandroses.com
MAKE A SPLASH
This brown leather bag with white splatter
efects is an eye-catching piece. It is part of
the latest collection from Knights & Roses, a
label named after the family crest of owner and
designer Countess Katharina von Polier. With
two collections a year since its founding in
2010, the accessories brand is making a name
for itself with its modern take on traditional
GANT STORES HAMBURG
FLAGSHIP STORE NEUER WALL 80
ALSTERTAL & ELBE-EINKAUFSZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE
MARK J. PLOTKIN
RAINFOREST ADVOCATE
WEARING THE ICONIC GANT SHIRT,
LAUNCHED AT EAST COAST
UNIVERSITIES IN 1949.
THEY CHANGED THE WORLD.
NOT THE SHIRT.
GA
NT
.CO
M
S H I R T M A K E R S S I N C E 1 9 4 9